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  #1  
Old 05-18-2021, 12:50 PM
WoodinvilleWalleye WoodinvilleWalleye is offline
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Default OK to move winch bracket forward?

Hello,

So I've been reading a lot of threads on the Dorotto and folks talking about having to move their winch post forward to accommodate for the boat being pushed back on the trailer. It seems like most installs are requiring this extra adjustment?

I looked at my setup and with my boat and bunks' current positioning, 2-3" back will extend the boat off the back of the bunks by about 2". Right now, the bunks extend past a bit more than an inch.

Up at the front of the trailer, the winch base is already as far forward as it can go due to it being a swing tongue trailer. However, the winch setup is actually made up of two components. The post base is attached to the trailer, and then there is a "bracket" part that holds the roller, and that is attached to the winch base via a couple of bolts. One bolt acts as a pivot point, and the second bolt goes in to one of a set of 5 different holes depending on the angle needed. What I'm thinking, is I might just be able to drill a new hole on that bracket piece and simply move the bracket forward, leaving the post base in the original position. This would allow me to make the adjustment necessary to keep everything in alignment with the way it is right now.

Does anyone see potential problems with this idea? I thought it'd be good to run it by others first.

Thanks!
Chad
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  #2  
Old 05-18-2021, 01:05 PM
Huntindave Huntindave is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WoodinvilleWalleye View Post
One bolt acts as a pivot point, and the second bolt goes in to one of a set of 5 different holes depending on the angle needed. What I'm thinking, is I might just be able to drill a new hole on that bracket piece ,,,,,,,,,

Does anyone see potential problems with this idea? I thought it'd be good to run it by others first.

Thanks!
Chad

It would be a fairly simple procedure to remove the bolts and experiment with the position to see if you can achieve the desired results. The bracket could be clamped in place just for eyeballing the setup.

New hole(s) in either or both pieces seems very reasonable and doable.

Might also check for tail gate clearance ( I can not imagine it would be that close).
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  #3  
Old 05-18-2021, 01:06 PM
Hot Runr Guy Hot Runr Guy is online now
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Looks like the "pivot" bolt is toward the back of the upright post, so I would move the winch section to a position that allows you to slide the hull forward, and re-drill as needed. Try to keep the winch strap as horizontal as possible. Of course, there is probably a roller that holds the strap up higher, so the angle of the strap between that roller and the winch is not that important.

HRG
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Last edited by Hot Runr Guy; 05-18-2021 at 01:10 PM. Reason: added roller info
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  #4  
Old 05-18-2021, 07:30 PM
WoodinvilleWalleye WoodinvilleWalleye is offline
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Thanks guys! I hadn't even thought of clamping it in place, that's a great idea. I think I might see about supporting the boat to keep it in position on the trailer, and then I could probably just install the Drotto in the garage if I took that bracket off. I'm thinking attach it and then get the bracket in the new position, clamp it and drill the new holes.
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Old 05-18-2021, 07:32 PM
WoodinvilleWalleye WoodinvilleWalleye is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hot Runr Guy View Post
Looks like the "pivot" bolt is toward the back of the upright post, so I would move the winch section to a position that allows you to slide the hull forward, and re-drill as needed. Try to keep the winch strap as horizontal as possible. Of course, there is probably a roller that holds the strap up higher, so the angle of the strap between that roller and the winch is not that important.

HRG
It's actually a bolt - that silver one in the picture that angles down a few inches from the roller there. That's a good tip about keeping it as horizontal as possible, I'll definitely do that.
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  #6  
Old 05-19-2021, 06:41 AM
Johnboy Johnboy is offline
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If the above suggestions don't give you satisfactory results consider replacing the bunk boards.
The transom should be fully supported by the bunks.
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Old 05-19-2021, 09:12 AM
REW REW is offline
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I wonder:
From the shorelander web site:

https://www.shorelandr.com/

It appears that you can not move the winch stand forward - due to the limitations of the trailer tongue.
It appears that you can not move the winch stand back due to the length of the bunks on the trailer - without having to install new bunks.
Also, if you move the boat on the trailer, you are certainly going to be changing the tongue weight on the ball and possibly affecting the towing characteristics of the trailer.

Now, if all of the aforementioned conditions are true -- There may be another possibility.

When I look at the picture of the winch stand and the winch holder in the picture above, how would it work for you to remove the winch from the winch stand.
Remove the winch stand from the trailer.
Rotate the winch stand 180 degrees - which would move the winch stand mount further forward.
Remount the winch stand mount with the new latch in place, and I am guessing that the position of the boat on the trailer would remain the same and the position of the winch stand on the boat trailer would remain the same.
It looks like the back of winch stand is open. So, if you do reverse the winch stand you might want to have a piece of steel fabricated and painted to cover the new front of the winch stand with 4 attaching bolts on the sides of the cover.

------------------------------------
But, I do have to ask the question:

If the expense and effort worth doing to install the latch? Are you going to gain enough by the latch installation to cover the trouble and expense to complete the installation?

Nice looking trailer though and I do hope you use and enjoy your rig to the fullest.

----
P.S.
I have been with a lot of different fellows who use bunk trailers.
In virtually every case, when it comes time to load, they simply drive the boat onto the trailer up to the winch stand. Leave the motor running and walk to the nose of the boat. Reach down, attach the snap, give the winch a 1/2 turn to tighten the strap and walk back to the engine to turn it off and drive the rig out of the water.

But, every person is different. Every launch is different, Every person needs are different. So, by all means do what you need to do, to make the rig work in exactly the way that you wish the rig to work.

Take care

Last edited by REW; 05-19-2021 at 09:36 AM.
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  #8  
Old 05-19-2021, 10:45 AM
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7 Mag 7 Mag is offline
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Rew Quote" Also, if you move the boat on the trailer, you are certainly going to be changing the tongue weight on the ball and possibly affecting the towing characteristics of the trailer.

My boat sits exactly where it was before, by moving the winch stand towards the tongue it allows the space for the Drotto. If you don't move the winch stand forward the boat actually sits further back on the trailer.
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  #9  
Old 05-19-2021, 10:55 AM
WoodinvilleWalleye WoodinvilleWalleye is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by REW View Post
I wonder:
From the shorelander web site:

https://www.shorelandr.com/

It appears that you can not move the winch stand forward - due to the limitations of the trailer tongue.
It appears that you can not move the winch stand back due to the length of the bunks on the trailer - without having to install new bunks.
Also, if you move the boat on the trailer, you are certainly going to be changing the tongue weight on the ball and possibly affecting the towing characteristics of the trailer.

Now, if all of the aforementioned conditions are true -- There may be another possibility.

When I look at the picture of the winch stand and the winch holder in the picture above, how would it work for you to remove the winch from the winch stand.
Remove the winch stand from the trailer.
Rotate the winch stand 180 degrees - which would move the winch stand mount further forward.
Remount the winch stand mount with the new latch in place, and I am guessing that the position of the boat on the trailer would remain the same and the position of the winch stand on the boat trailer would remain the same.
It looks like the back of winch stand is open. So, if you do reverse the winch stand you might want to have a piece of steel fabricated and painted to cover the new front of the winch stand with 4 attaching bolts on the sides of the cover.

------------------------------------
But, I do have to ask the question:

If the expense and effort worth doing to install the latch? Are you going to gain enough by the latch installation to cover the trouble and expense to complete the installation?

Nice looking trailer though and I do hope you use and enjoy your rig to the fullest.

----
P.S.
I have been with a lot of different fellows who use bunk trailers.
In virtually every case, when it comes time to load, they simply drive the boat onto the trailer up to the winch stand. Leave the motor running and walk to the nose of the boat. Reach down, attach the snap, give the winch a 1/2 turn to tighten the strap and walk back to the engine to turn it off and drive the rig out of the water.

But, every person is different. Every launch is different, Every person needs are different. So, by all means do what you need to do, to make the rig work in exactly the way that you wish the rig to work.

Take care
This is all very thoughtful suggestions. I will definitely walk through some of this in the garage. We have rain on the forecast for like the next week here, so gives me a little bit of time to work through these options. I definitely won't be pushing the boat back past the end of the bunks, we'll drop using the Dorotto before we go that route.

To answer the "why" part, it is based some on our situation. We bought our first boat as a family last year - 2020 Lund 1775 Adventure Sport. I grew up in MN fishing with my Dad pretty much every available weekend, and sometimes snuck out on week nights. During all this time, I was the "dock hand" in our setup where he would back the truck down, unhook the boat, we'd roll it off the rollers, and I'd pull it to the dock and wait for him. Loading was pretty much reverse, but he'd pull the winch strap to about the middle of the trailer, and I'd guide the boat to him by pulling on a rope attached to the eye. We never did any "power" or "motorized loading", but our system seemed to work great for us. It was a smaller fiberglass boat on a roller trailer - more pleasure boat, but we made it work for fishing too.

Now, flash forward to my family having our first boat. I want them to be a big part of the enjoyment of boat ownership and learn new life skills. My wife and kids had no knowledge at all last year, but were excited to learn. Our closest lake tends to be a little busy at the ramp, depending on the time of day and weather - like many ramps out there, I'm sure. I had to learn my skill of backing up a trailer, and my wife was the one to help hold the boat at the dock until it was ready to load. Then, she'd do pretty much as you suggest - drive the boat towards me up on to the bunks. I'd have my waders on and catch the bow, hook the winch strap up and crank it on the rest of the way. For the most part, this has worked pretty well. However, two things have happened: 1) she's not yet comfortable maneuvering the boat at low speed and guiding it on the trailer. She had one "oops" last year where she bumped a submerged log near the ramp, and while it did absolutely no damage, it gave her confidence a bit of a hit, and 2) we've always had just a bit of trouble keeping the boat centered and level on the bunk trailer.

So, to address these issues, I've invested in some Bullseye guide posts which I'm adding to the trailer. That will help give her a target to simply point the boat in-between them, and come up towards me. When ordering the Bullseye guides, I talked with Chuck Bryant - one heck of a nice guy - and he had suggested that the Dorotto might be a piece that we'd consider adding to our setup. This way, not only could we have the benefit of the guides keeping the boat in the position on the trailer, but we could also catch the front and lock it in to place. In this scenario, after the Dorotto caught the boat, I'd then latch the safety chain on to the eye for extra security, and then pull the boat out. If we got this system down, on busier ramp days, the stress level would be much less, in turn making the whole experience more enjoyable.

My first steps will be installing the guides as I know that will make a huge difference - getting them dialed in to where the boat is just centered each time without having to think about it much will be great. If we can make the Dorotto work with the setup, that'll just be even more exciting. Fortunately, the cost here can be secondary (I'm fine with spending the money), the primary goal is to keep the family confidence up and all parts of the outing enjoyable. To be very clear, every one at the ramps have been super nice, and honestly, the stress is more self inflicted than anything else. We've even had folks compliment us on how smooth we loaded and unloaded. But, if doing these few upgrades/enhancements will set things even more at ease, it'll be money well spent.

Again, great questions you had there, and very good insight.

Last edited by WoodinvilleWalleye; 05-19-2021 at 10:59 AM.
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  #10  
Old 05-19-2021, 11:15 AM
Hot Runr Guy Hot Runr Guy is online now
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Default another option,,,

If you look at the brackets that hold your bunks, they are "skewed" toward the tonque. You could unbolt them, spin them 180 degrees, mount them from the front-side of the crossmembers, and move the bunks back 3" or so,,,

HRG
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My Mentor, Bill Michalek, circa 1975

Last edited by Hot Runr Guy; 05-19-2021 at 11:18 AM.
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