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  #11  
Old 11-30-2021, 09:58 AM
REW REW is offline
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Vtec,
Your comment about a wheel bounce reminds me of a very nice looking automobile that I purchased some years ago.

During my initial inspection, I had checked the brakes and had found that they had been recently replaced.
I also found that new tires would be required.

So, after purchasing the car, I took the car to a tire shop and had new tires installed on the vehicle.
However, after the new tires on the vehicle I took it for a drive and found that I had a vibration on the right front wheel. I took it back to the tire shop and asked that they rebalance the tire. Sure enough, the tire needed to be rebalanced. Apparently shortly after the first balancing, the tire threw a weight and began to bounce.

However, a retest indicated that the right front tire was still bouncing.

I said to myself, apparently this wheel needs a closer look.

So, I jacked up the right front wheel and put the car on a jack stand. Then, with just the one wheel off the ground, I started the car and ran the speedometer up to an indicated 40 mph which meant that the tire was spinning at 80 mph Sure, enough a severe shake on that wheel.

All right - lots go further.

I removed the wheel, and put the lug nuts back on to keep the brake rotor tight to the hub and reran the test. Surprise, the wheel bounce was still there. Not the fault of the tire.

So, I pulled the brake caliper and removed the new brake rotor that was on the car. I reran the test, and sure enough the spinning axle was dead smooth. I brought the rotor over to the tire shop and had them check the balance of the hub on their tire balancer. Sure enough, a very badly balanced - new - rotor. I went and purchased a new rotor and ran the rotor on test. Smooth run. I then put the wheel back on the tire and made all of the lug nuts tight and reran the test. Smooth run.

So, although the brake job had recently been done on the front brakes the installer had the bad luck of purchasing a poorly balanced brake rotor.

This was the only time in all my years of wrenching that I had, or have ever run across a poorly balanced brake rotor.

Also, this was a luxury automobile that I purchased for just a fraction of new price and I drove it for another 150,000 miles with nearly no issues at all.
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  #12  
Old 11-30-2021, 10:37 AM
foxy
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Default 40mph now 80mph ?

Quote:
Originally Posted by REW View Post
Vtec,
So, I jacked up the right front wheel and put the car on a jack stand. Then, with just the one wheel off the ground, I started the car and ran the speedometer up to an indicated 40 mph which meant that the tire was spinning at 80 mph Sure, enough a severe shake on that wheel.
.
Can you please explain how this is possible.
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  #13  
Old 11-30-2021, 11:02 AM
crazyboatguy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by foxy View Post
Can you please explain how this is possible.

It's not. One also does not need to put the nuts back on to hold the rotor on.
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  #14  
Old 11-30-2021, 10:17 PM
REW REW is offline
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Foxy,
You asked how this is possible.

This was a front wheel drive vehicle.

When both wheels would be off the ground, if each had equal drag from the brakes, an indicated speed on the vehicle speedometer would give the identical on each of the wheels.

However, as I explained in my example, I only lifted 1/4 of the car off the ground. i.e. I lifted the front passenger wheel off the ground for the test.

The vehicle has a differential. This means that if one wheel does not turn, the other wheel is going to turn twice as fast as is indicated on the speedometer, since the torque from the engine is no longer being shared by the two front wheels. i.e. all of the power is going to only the front passenger wheel which results in an 80 mph speed on that wheel, when the speedometer is indicating 40 mph.

With respect to the rotor.
Many rotors have a screw or flat topped torx screw through the brake rotor into the hub of the vehicles wheel.

But, other vehicles only have a clip or two over a couple of lug nuts to keep the rotor close to the hub, but not necessarily tight.

Then, there is the class of vehicles - that may (either because it was left off in a previous brake job by a mechanic, or because there never was a clip or a retaining screw ever inserted through the rotor to keep the rotor tight to the hub. Yes, if the brake caliper is still on the car, the hub can rattle around but never come loose if there is not a retaining screw through the rotor to keep it tight through the hubl.

But, for my personal safety and sanity - I elected to reinstall all 5 lug nuts and make them tight to be sure that the brake rotor could not rattle in any direction when it was spinning at 80 mph.

Note:
Over the years, doing brake jobs and cv axle work I have gone through this process many times and it is 100% accurate.

But, as someone may have suggested, if you have a vehicle with a retaining screw or bolt through the brake rotor into the wheel hub you absolutely do not need to put lug nuts back on the lug bolts to retain the brake rotor. The retaining screw or bolt will do that job for you.

But, no retaining screw or bolt and yes, you need to add at least two or three lug nuts to hold the brake rotor secure if you want to spin it fast with no tire on the hub.

Best wishes

p.s.
If you had a problem on a rear wheel with a vehicle with rear wheel drive you could use the engine to duplicate the same test on the rear wheels.
Note:
Since the vehicle that I was working on, the engine would power only the front wheels with the front end off the ground and it would have been impossible to do the same thing with the rear wheels since I had no drive power to the rear wheels on that vehicle.
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  #15  
Old 12-01-2021, 09:46 AM
Remmark Remmark is offline
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REW, that is good advice. My local guy checked for transom rot and said it was good. The Lund dealer/shop doing the floor is also going to do a check as well while we are already tearing it apart. I told him to look at any electrical wire issues or new gas lines and hoses etc. while we are in there. Itís a small add on to replace stuff if youíre already taken apart than going back in later. Thanks.
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  #16  
Old 12-02-2021, 04:13 PM
REW REW is offline
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Remmark,
Absolutely without a doubt - if replacing the floor, please please replace all of the hoses, fuel lines , pumps and floatation foam.

Trivial to do these jobs with no floor and potentially no transom in place. Much tougher to do after the boat is buttoned up.

It might cost an extra 300-500 to do these adds at this time. But if the boat is buttoned up, it might cost $1,000 to do just one of these jobs due to the difficulty reaching the areas.

Another good idea is to also put in a full length drain pipe from the bow of the boat to the rear drain hole. Also, when putting in a new floor, put a drain tube to the rear drain hole from each pedestal seat location, so water does not sit in the bottom of the seat pedestal base. Again, easy to do, when everything is ripped apart. Not so easy afterward.

Also, if you want a seat in a different position and or style seat and or pedestal base, now is the time to change it.

Best wishes
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  #17  
Old 12-05-2021, 10:17 PM
Remmark Remmark is offline
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Iíll add all that to the list. Thereís a lot of life left in that boat and would feel better having replaced all the tired stuff, especially when it was easy. Small investment has big dividends later.
Thanks for the good advice.
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  #18  
Old 12-06-2021, 02:00 PM
ranger1850 ranger1850 is offline
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Default Buying used on purpose

I feel if you can judge what your buying fits your needs and can handle any issues, then I agree. I like buying new, and at times I feel it's a big mistake. However, the one time I bought used, ended up costing me more money after the sale. Long story but that is why I like buying a quality product new
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  #19  
Old 12-07-2021, 01:39 PM
Shotgun Shotgun is offline
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Remmark, I also have a 1700 Lund Fisherman. I bought it from a guy in Lawnsdale, MN February 2012. Has a Mercury 115 EFI four stroke. Boat currently has 260 hours on it. Always covered or garaged. In 2019 I noticed a brown stain coming from around the scuppers in the transom. Took it to a Lund dealer for inspection and was told nothing serious yet but the staining is chemicals in the wood leaching out, which can react to the aluminum causing corrosion. Well known issue with some of these boats. I had the dealer order a composite exact fit transom from Lund and had it installed. Assume they'll need to pull out your folding seats, battery tray, live well and cooler in the back to replace your floor, which needs done to replace the transom also. If it was me I'd seriously consider a transom replacement at that time. Much of the work removing things would be done. You'll never have to look back and wonder. Very safe and stable boat. Once you get it all to your liking, you'll have something that will last a long time. Enjoy!
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  #20  
Old 12-07-2021, 07:44 PM
Remmark Remmark is offline
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Hi Shotgun,
I plan on talking about that very thing in my next conversation with the dealer.
BTW, I had an uncle who was a priest stationed at Lonsdale a long time ago. Nice area.
MY wife in onboard (lol) with doing all this work. She really likes this boat much better than the 1625 Rebel XL sport; I do too. Lotta life left in this boat. Thanks.
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