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  #11  
Old 08-31-2021, 12:54 PM
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guidedfishing guidedfishing is offline
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I used to use a sock off the front of the boat years ago. It worked but was never an ideal setup. Literally a lot of extra baggage, boat control becomes more difficult, not from the aspect of maintaining a heading but being able to turn. Extra risk of tangles.

Now I just use the kicker, and if its a really slow speed required, chasing walleye vs salmon & trout I will put down the electric trolling motor turn it side ways. put down one or both electric anchors a foot or two into the water. Adjust the trim on main and kicker motor. I usually don't need this unless I am dealing with a strong tail wind, or trying to stay at or below 0.8 mph.

If you must use a bag just make sure it goes off the bow or a front cleat.

Good luck.
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  #12  
Old 09-01-2021, 11:35 AM
kshusker kshusker is offline
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I have a 18 for targa with a 150, I use a single drift sock tied to each front cleat so it rides in the middle of the boat. I can get below 2 mph. I have the motor trimmed all the way down and steer with my terrova. Works well for me, and steering doesn't seem to affected that much .
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  #13  
Old 09-01-2021, 11:38 AM
REW REW is offline
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A very good technique to use with double bags for trolling:

https://www.walleyecentral.com/forum.../t-542490.html
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  #14  
Old 09-02-2021, 10:45 AM
rogueriver rogueriver is offline
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Thanks for all the great tips and ideas guys. i'll give what i have a try off the front cleat and see how its does.
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  #15  
Old 09-03-2021, 10:43 AM
repoman repoman is offline
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I just trim my motor up, the prop trust not going straight back slows the boat really well. I can still steer and do not have to mess with socks/bags out the back.
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  #16  
Old 09-04-2021, 12:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rogueriver View Post
Thanks for all the great tips and ideas guys. i'll give what i have a try off the front cleat and see how its does.
just make sure and tie the back of the bag to the back of the boat if at all possible. when I tried bags without being tied they would drift out away from the boat and then swing back causing the boat to go back and forth making holding a heading very hard. the trolling bag I use now with the backs tied works so much better.
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  #17  
Old 09-20-2021, 07:00 PM
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blackeyes blackeyes is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by last chance View Post
just make sure and tie the back of the bag to the back of the boat if at all possible. when I tried bags without being tied they would drift out away from the boat and then swing back causing the boat to go back and forth making holding a heading very hard. the trolling bag I use now with the backs tied works so much better.
This is how I set mine up to
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  #18  
Old 09-26-2021, 07:45 PM
Tappin' Bottom Tappin' Bottom is offline
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I used to have an old 16' starcraft that I couldn't get slower than 2.5 mph as well. I tied a 5 gallon bucket to the front of the boat and a tail of the rope in the boat to retrieve the bucket. steering was no problem and it worked great. I ended up getting a trolling plate that worked fine and got similar results. ended up selling the boat because the motor was a 2 stroke and mama didn't like the smoke hanging in the boat when the wind was just right. but the moral is the bucket worked great and was cheap to do. I'd do it again if the situation arises again that warrants it. tying a drift sock to a cleat will get the results you describe and be in the way when you're pulling in fish. splitting the difference still leaves interference and moves your pivot point behind the boat. I'd rather have it towards the front for maneuverability. Trolling plate works too if you're willing to consider it, that too though has its downsides but it does work.
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  #19  
Old 09-27-2021, 05:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tappin' Bottom View Post
I used to have an old 16' starcraft that I couldn't get slower than 2.5 mph as well. I tied a 5 gallon bucket to the front of the boat and a tail of the rope in the boat to retrieve the bucket. steering was no problem and it worked great. I ended up getting a trolling plate that worked fine and got similar results. ended up selling the boat because the motor was a 2 stroke and mama didn't like the smoke hanging in the boat when the wind was just right. but the moral is the bucket worked great and was cheap to do. I'd do it again if the situation arises again that warrants it. tying a drift sock to a cleat will get the results you describe and be in the way when you're pulling in fish. splitting the difference still leaves interference and moves your pivot point behind the boat. I'd rather have it towards the front for maneuverability. Trolling plate works too if you're willing to consider it, that too though has its downsides but it does work.
with the bag tied to your front cleat you only need enough rope out so the bags open. i had a 21' glass cobia with a 350 vorteck motor. my bags were only out just far enough to tie off to the back of the boat. then we used the back rope to pull the bags in. they never got in the way.

if you do try a trolling plate you want the easy troller plate. the bottom half of the plate is hinged and spring-loaded. the bottom half of the plate swings up if you do forget to raise it and take off. a bent plate can ruin the whole trip. if you need a plate to try I have one for 65.00 plus shipping.
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  #20  
Old 09-27-2021, 07:33 AM
rogueriver rogueriver is offline
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I trolled yesterday with the bag tied off the front cleat and it worked much better. Not for walleye but for crappie and saugeye and caught a few crappie and 1 saugeye, spent a lot of time playing with and adjusting the bag and learning how to read my garmin better, i'm starting to get the hang of things. was able to get down to 1.2 mph

I do think a trolling plate would be easier to use but what are the negatives?

I'm liking just putting around the lake enjoying the day while trolling so i can see myself fishing this way a good bit, so a trolling plate seems like it would be easier than deploying the bag??
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