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Old 11-27-2019, 10:05 PM
azbohunter azbohunter is offline
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Default Corroded main power connector

This is on my 2014 Pro Guide. It is the main connector that is located in the electronics console. The main corrosion is on the heavest wire which I believe is 10 gauge and supplies power from battery to all accessories. I have had a low voltage reading for a long time on my Garmin MDF and I wondering if this in not the reason.
Question is will contact cleaner and then dielectric grease solve the problem? Prevent future problems? Or is there a better way to clean this connectors?
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  #2  
Old 11-28-2019, 01:01 AM
Hot Runr Guy Hot Runr Guy is online now
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That's a Packard GT280 connector, which is only rated to 25 amps. The light-colored piece snaps in, with a small flat screwdriver pry-up on 1 end, and it should pop out, for better cleaning.

Honestly, with the load the #10 wire has on it, powering the console, I'd cut the wire out, and use a heat-shrink splice to eliminate the disconnect.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ucH7XyAD54

HRG
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Old 11-28-2019, 08:19 AM
azbohunter azbohunter is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hot Runr Guy View Post
That's a Packard GT280 connector, which is only rated to 25 amps. The light-colored piece snaps in, with a small flat screwdriver pry-up on 1 end, and it should pop out, for better cleaning.

Honestly, with the load the #10 wire has on it, powering the console, I'd cut the wire out, and use a heat-shrink splice to eliminate the disconnect.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ucH7XyAD54

HRG
You are suggesting to cut the #10 wire and splice it and leave everything else?
I have been showing low voltage on my MDF even though my battery show 13 it would show 11.??, I am thinking this is probably why? Your thoughts?
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Old 11-28-2019, 09:01 AM
Hot Runr Guy Hot Runr Guy is online now
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You are suggesting to cut the #10 wire and splice it and leave everything else? Yes

I have been showing low voltage on my MDF even though my battery show 13 it would show 11.??, I am thinking this is probably why? Your thoughts? I would agree, the dirty connection could certain cause that. Either way, it's best to get rid of the disconnect (for that wire) if you don't need it for that higher-power circuit. The rest of the leads are the feeds to pumps, lights, gauges, etc.

HRG
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File Type: pdf Lund 1875-2075ProGuideHull Model wiring.pdf (196.7 KB, 83 views)
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Old 11-28-2019, 09:14 AM
azbohunter azbohunter is offline
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Thank you for your help.
Happy Thanksgiving to you and yours!
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Old 12-07-2019, 02:26 PM
Seaark1660 Seaark1660 is offline
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Google"DeoxIT",that stuff works great on locator connections and automotive connectors.
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Old 12-09-2019, 06:28 PM
azbohunter azbohunter is offline
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Lots of different products under that label. Lots of good reports!
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Old 12-17-2019, 06:18 AM
REW REW is offline
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AZ,
Unless you have a good reason to be able to disconnect the connector, I would cut the main battery wire free of the connector and just do a hard jumper around the connector to supply the main battery power.

Then, after using the appropriate material to remove 100% of all of the corrosion in the connector, fill the connector with grease to avoid future corrosion.

If both sides of a connector are clean, you can fill the connector with the grease of your choice. When you insert the connector, the grease is wiped off the face of the contacts which then make great contact. But the remaining grease seals the contacts which disallow moisture and oxygen to get to the contact to cause any future corrosion.

If you do need to have the main power removable, then just use a single dedicated connector for that wire. For example, Anderson makes a very good high current connector that will do an excellent job.

No question, corrosion causes voltage drops and lots of issues.

----------------------------
One other thing to check and that is for the presence of black wire corrosion.
Black wire corrosion is commonly found on the negative or minus battery wire of DC circuits. It is especially common in wet or marine environments.

The remedy for it, is to start with wire that has been tin plated - or when you look at the wire, it is silver in color and not copper in color. The tin plating really helps to retard the formation of black wire corrosion.

To check for black wire corrosion, do some spot checks on your black or negative wire, under the insulation - especially close to the power source to see if you have blue to black corrosion creeping up the wire. When the corrosion gets bad, the wire actually turns blank, and is brittle and is highly resistive that causes a voltage drop of variable degrees - depending on the amount of corrosion.

In severe cases, it will be necessary to replace the full length of wire from the power source to the load to get rid of all of the corroded wire in the particular circuit.

Best wishes.
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Old 12-17-2019, 06:21 AM
REW REW is offline
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A pretty good article on marine wiring and solutions to corrosion issues:

https://www.practical-sailor.com/blo...n-10883-1.html
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Old 12-18-2019, 11:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by REW View Post
A pretty good article on marine wiring and solutions to corrosion issues:

https://www.practical-sailor.com/blo...n-10883-1.html
Thanks a lot for the advice! As for me sometimes I use alcohol to wipe contacts.
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