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#1
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I’m asking for opinions about purchasing a 2005 Dodge Ram 2500 with 14,000 miles. This truck is a diesel with a 5 speed manual tranny. It was owned by an older gentlleman who recently died and his son is offering to sell me the truck for what appears to be a reasonable price of about 12K. It is in nearly mint condition. I have never owned a diesel vehicle.
I currently pull a 19’ tin Starcraft and hope to upgrade to a 19’ glass ranger in the next year. My current vehicle is a gas SUV which does an adaquate job. If I purchase this vehicle it will not be used everyday, and mostly only on weekends until I retire in 22 months. While I don’t need a truck this powerful, it seems like an opportunity to own a workhorse vehicle at a great price which I could use for many purposes.....BUT... I’ve recently read a thread here discussing diesel vs. gas trucks for interemently towing relatively light loads (2000 - 3000 lbs). My take from that discussion was that posters preferred gas because of several factors, namely higher maintenance and fuel costs....AND mostly because newer diesels have an exhaust component that clogges if the truck is not run offer and for long trips. This vehicle does not have the “new” emission system so I assume those issues don’t apply...or do they? Or, are there other issues that I should be concerned with? I would still have the increased fuel and maintenance costs, which I can live with. So, please provide me with any and all thoughts on this vehicle, my situation and anything else relative to this possible sale. Thanks in advance. Mike. |
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#2
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Buy it
If not send me the address Would guess it’s a 6 speed also. 4x4? Extended cab? Even a regular cab at 12k pre dpf is a smoking deal. Please send me the sellers info.
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13 Lund impact 1775 1.7l 115 merc 4 stroke 2 helix si 10's BT terrova link |
#3
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I'm going to tell you that's a great vehicle that you have a chance to get and I wouldn't think twice about buying it. As far as emissions This model uses an catalytic converter and exhaust gas re-circulation. Your not going to have a problem with either.(250000 miles before the cat falls off)
Assuming that you buy the truck it has a few flaws that need to be addressed before you put the next mile on it. To avoid premature injector wear the fuel filtration must be upgraded. A simple kit ($200) from Glacier diesel gets you 2 micron filtration and extends injector life and dependability for as long as you care to drive it. Update the truck to a "in tank" fuel pump and your on your way. The engine mounted pump fails prematurely... I run Optilube (summer blend) additive which costs 2 cents a gallon and raises fuel lubricity which again helps avoid injector and pump wear. You should plan to change out all fluids, starting with coolant. I'm at 285000 miles all original on my 2003. My upgrades have been the following; 2008 steering components, redhead steering gear, steering brace, in tank fuel pump and 2 micron fuel filtration. My last trip was 400 miles to Lacrosse Wi 'hand calculated" fuel mileage was 20 mpg. Your truck will average slightly less due to three injector events per combustion cycle. 2005 has a better head (heat treated valve seats) and larger piston spray nozzles for cooling.It's a great engine and your going to love it. Best of luck to you... Tom |
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#4
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.....For the detailed information. The truck is a single cab, 4x4, 8’ bed and I was mistaken, it’s a 6 speed not 5. I’ll keep you up to date on what transpires and perhaps get a few pictures. The truck is stuck in probate, so it may be a couple weeks. Thanks again. Mike
Last edited by MikeG1; 03-18-2019 at 11:49 PM. |
#5
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By all means get it. I had a 04.5 and as mentioned, fuel filtration and the fuel lift pump were the most common problems. I believe in '05 they offered 2 versions of the 6 speed. Either the NV5600 or the Getrag G56. Both are decent with the nod going to the NV because the G56 had a dual disc clutch which could have issues. Other than that, you shouldn't have to do much until you get in the 80k mileage range. Then it will be time to check ball joints, and front end u-joints and bearings.
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#6
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You folks obviously know a lot about these machines, information that I'm not sure I could find anywhere else.
You taking the time to respond is greatly appreciated. God Bless! |
#7
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You truly have found the needle in the haystack. That is a very desirable model to have! You will have no issues with a vehicle of that mileage. You can see some premature turbo failures with them getting plugged up at around 70k miles if you do not keep it spooled up. Do not be afraid to run it down the road in 5th pulling your trailer, sacrificing some mileage just to keep the turbo from getting plugged up. Intermittently is fine, just not long trips at a constant 6th gear and low rpms. That motor has tons of power and they like to be worked.
A little trick that works well is to add a half pint of ATF or 2 stroke oil in with each fill up, into the fuel tank. It helps lubricate the injectors, will quiet the motor and has no negative effects. Do not expect great fuel mileage with that kind of mileage on your odometer. That motor won't start to even break in until about 70-80k miles.
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2017 Lowe Fishing Machine 1710WT Deep V 115 Mercury Optimax Pro XS Motorguide Xi5 with GPS Lowrance Elite 9Ti2 Lowrance Elite 7Ti2 Pulled by 2020 Chevy Trail Boss |
#8
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BUY IT!! That is a steal!! I've got an 06 mega cab with the 6 speed manual. 176k and no issues other than normal wear & tear. The biggest problems with these 3rd gen dodges are the front ends. it's a Dana 60, but the components dodge chose to use are subpar. Highly recommend the 09 T-Style steering upgrade and eventually you'll need ball joints but I made it 100k before my stock ones finally gave up. I also run Power Service Diesel Kleen + cetane boost with every fill up and a quart of TCW-3 two stroke oil a couple times a year. Jump on the cummins forum, TONS of very good information on these rigs. It will tow your boat like a dream. I get around 15 mpg pulling my Lund but I am running 37" tires... If you have any specific questions feel free to hit me up.
https://www.dieselpowerproducts.com/...xoC_hgQAvD_BwE https://powerservice.com/psp_product...-cetane-boost/ https://cumminsforum.com
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2016 Lund Tyee 1900 Merc 150 4 stroke Minn Kota Terrova 112 |
#9
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With diesels it's about the miles, and not the age - how much more can it work!?
I own a 2004.5 ... essentially the catalytic converter (50-state) containing pre-2005 that got the newer piston bowl design that came with the 2005-2007 5.9 liter trucks and in-cylinder EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation). This EGR is actually a cam lobe change that causes the exhaust valve to close sooner causing some of the soot to remain in the cylinder to be burnt again. The issue with this kind of EGR is it can cause carbon build up in the cylinders causing ring lock causing eventual ring breakage (this can happen at 70K miles). To keep the cylinders clear, you want to use the truck as hot as possible - not for grocery store trips. Believe it or not, the Cummins guidelines for reaching operating temp is four hours operation under load, which is a tall order for anyone myself included. The in-cylinder EGR, by the way, will cause the oil to become black as pitch. My engine which I had rebuilt recently (hot tank clean) needed less than 30 miles to turn the oil from gold to black! (I had broken rings). Regardless. Do not hesitate to buy the truck - it would be worth 12K with 250K miles!! With 14K miles, this is essentially a new truck! Maintenance of this vintage of diesel is a fuel filter every 10-15K miles, and an oil/filter change at 5000 to 7000k miles. That is it. Adding a filter to the fuel supply will extend the life of the injectors but in general, if you choose a newer, busy fueling depot and do not fuel up at mom & pop stations that let diesel sit in tanks for months, you're likely fine. Use good fuel filters (Baldwin PF77 series) and good oil filters (Stratopore). I do my oil changes using regular dino oil - get the oil that still contains zinc (Valvoline Blue from Tractor Depot) - Costco changed what they sold, and now sells a newer formulated oil that has less zinc so do not use it (Chevron Delo 400 LE). These engines use exactly 12 quarts of oil, so buy three gallons at $12/ea - that's $36 worth of oil plus a $10 filter. About a $50 oil change - really the only added expense. The oil filter can be changed without changing the oil so that is another way to ensure longevity - change the filter at 2.5K miles - add in the amount that's left in the filter. You got a lucky break, my man! Kind of like winning the Cummins lottery! Check out Jay Buhner's (Seattle Mariners) truck stores, northwest motorsports. They specialize in low mileage trucks. Here's a well used 2005 with 200+K miles for $15K https://www.nwmsrocks.com/for-sale/l...-slt-4x4_83551 And here's a 2006 with 57K miles for $35K!! ![]() https://www.nwmsrocks.com/for-sale/2...horn-4x4_86904 I wouldn't be surprised if you could sell your potential truck to Jay for $30K! |
#10
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Well, I was finally able to purchase this truck after almost 4 years. It took longer than I wanted and cost more, but I’m happy. Delay caused by estate issues. Thanks to all for the info.
To recap, I bought this 2005 dodge 2500 diesel with only 15,000 miles for 23k in July. It’s a 6 speed manual tranny. Since July I put 5,000 miles on it. It’s been stored in a barn so no rust. It has running boards, 8 foot bed and standard cab. Came with cap that almost fits and a 70’s truck camper. Plans are to change oil at 5k and fuel filter at 10k. I want this truck to last. Should I have it under coated to prevent rust? Any other recommendations. Once again. Thanks for all your input. |
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