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  #51  
Old 10-05-2021, 09:03 AM
Hat Trick Hat Trick is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yarcraft91 View Post
That depends on the range to your target and your choice of ammo.

Inside 300 yards, I agreed 30-06 or .270 is superior. Beyond 500 yards, a 6.5mm round, such as 6.5x55 Swedish Mauser (which has been around since 1894) with Norma ammo or 6.5 Creedmore is a better choice, both for flatter trajectory and retained energy.

Also, the German 8mm Mauser is the equal to the 30-06 if you use good European ammo. With typical US ammo, it's not much better than a 30-30.
Tell me more?

Have you actually looked at a ballistic chart? Have you actually shot these rounds at these distances to decide which one is more ďsuperior?Ē
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  #52  
Old 10-05-2021, 09:06 AM
Hat Trick Hat Trick is offline
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To the OPÖ

Youíre getting a lot of horrible advice on this thread in the first 3 pages. Some good. If you donít want to listen to me, listen to Burr, heís given you some solid advice too. You do what what, but learn your rifle, no matter the one you choose. Bullet placement, bullet placement, bullet placement!
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  #53  
Old 10-05-2021, 09:07 AM
thump55 thump55 is offline
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Originally Posted by Hat Trick View Post
LMAO!!

Tell me how much farther it drops.
180gr sighted at 1.5" high at 150 have to aim 8" high at 300, 14" at 350 and 22" at 400
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  #54  
Old 10-05-2021, 09:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Roy Weatherby View Post
Sounds more like a gun collection than anything else. Beware of the man who carries one gun. He knows how to use it !
Or in the case of this thread, they have no clue how to use it.
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  #55  
Old 10-05-2021, 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Tappin' Bottom View Post
lots of good and bad advice on here. for those who believe wild game is gross, I say learn to cook it. if you make steak the same way you fry bacon it's not going to be the best. most people overcook it and fail to realize field prep once it hits the ground is paramount. you can take a prime butcher steer and cart it around the back of a pickup for 2 days in 80 degree temps and it will taste like scat. antelope is some of the best table fare there is out there in my opinion. waterfowl takes a little more work to be delicious but it is possible.

once the animal is down get the meat cooled as quickly as possible. keep it on the bone until rigor sets in or it will be tough as leather. if kill site is remote then quarter it bone in and hang to cool in the shade for a bit. then pack out as is or debone after rigor sets in, get on ice as soon as you get back to the truck taking care to keep the meat from getting wet. ice on top of meat is best, remember heat rises, cold settles. but remember to keep it from sitting in water if possible, it helps later on. that's the best condensed version I can provide of general guidelines you need for now.

a 6.5 creedmore isn't a bad round, but it's way overhyped to sell product.
there's a reason the 30-06 is still around after over 100 years and is still one of if not the most popular big game rounds. I've killed around 16-18 elk and have been present when 50+ have hit the ground in several states. I've seen them killed with everything from 224-45 caliber rounds from a centerfire cartridge. not to mention black powder, archery and crossbows. shot placement trumps knockdown power every time, not to say that enough power isn't important though. a poor shot with a big magnum isn't better than a perfect shot with a 243 when using proper bullets. your 30-06 is more than adequate for what you are wanting to do so run it and not think twice. it's only a small piece of the puzzle though to kill an elk.

as for range, in the majority of hunting scenerios shots will be under 300 yards and more like 200 or closer. IF you want to maximize the cartridge potential then do your homework and practice with it. know what the bullets will do once it hits the target at a given velocity/range. I shoot the majority of my game with a 308. it's simple and effective and deadly accurate out to 500 yards. I have 3 decades of trigger time and have fine tuned my bullet of choice to know exactly where it's going and a very good idea of the speed it's going when it gets there. if you don't have the experience, then find someone who legitimately does and learn from them, most dedicated shooters enjoy teaching people the right way to do it. My son just turned 13 and can shoot better than the majority of hunters I know, even seasoned ones. Last year he took 2 deer in the scope of 30 seconds at ranges of 416 yards and 232 yards with a change in shooting position and drastic shot angle with me as his spotter and calling ranges. He's been shooting since he was 5 though so work up to it.

If you're practicing from a bench then I assume you'll be carrying the bench with you. If not, then I suggest zeroing from a bench and practicing from positions you'll likely encounter in the field. Prone, leaning on a post/tree or from a knee are all good positions to practice with even just a few rounds per range session to get comfortable doing it. which brings up my next point, get comfortable with your rifle. get a comfortable sling and practice slinging and unslinging, practice carrying it, get used to the weight and how it handles. if you're packing in to hunt, then practice packing your gear if possible and handling your rifle with your pack on and off using it as an improvised rest. know your limitations with mobility and positions and mitigate them if possible. shooting sticks are great but can be a pain to deploy quickly in some situations. everything has a purpose and outside of it can just be in the way. good binoculars will serve you well, don't go cheap on them, also I recommend a rangefinder, most hunters can't accurately estimate ranges or even ballpark them. set yourself up for success and you'll be ahead of the game (pun intended) Good luck and let us know when you get one!
Thank God someone one here know what they're talking about!!
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  #56  
Old 10-05-2021, 09:16 AM
Hat Trick Hat Trick is offline
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Originally Posted by tewwbulltom View Post
I own a300 win mag, 30.06, 308. Like every on said an o6 will bring down whitetail, placement all important, recoil and loud. A very big deal.partician bullet really very important. But maybe not?
An 06 has an effective kill range of 175yds, 300W 225. This means that the energy is enough to bring down game at those ranges. Now letís see what happens at extended ranges. When I first got the 300W, I was a speed freak so I went to a 150 boat tail. First 8 pt buck at 50 yds, I knocked the buck right off his feet. My entrance wound was 6Ē blast. What happened, was bullet was going so fast that the shock wave just before impact, blew the bullet up but still had its energy so it still killed the deer. Same thing happens w an 06 loaded w. Core lock. There are three 06ís in my deer camp they all shoot cheap bullets and had the same issue...whole shoulders were garbage. They all bad mouthed the 300 but was shooting federal premium 180 nosi at$40 and had way better results. It wasnít the gun it was the bullet!

Now your out west for elk,moose or bear. Any gun will put down an elk at 150 yds. W a particiion. Now you see a 6by at 300-400 yds. You take the shot an the elk walks away. Why? The 180 has lost the necessary energy to expand and goes right thru and the beast is now going away to be found or not. The solution would be a 150 bt, which would be going faster w a soft point and you might just have a kill shot because the energy would be expelled in the animal and not just passing thru.

Iíve been told that a 300 Weatherby is the perfect gun for out west at $70/ box. When I bagged A big moose in Mn. our dnr states that wanted 30 caliber. Not a 30 30 and they stated a smaller round wasnít going to put a moose down and they report that many hunters just kept shooting putting holes in a walking dead moose. My 1200 # bull was first hit at 70 yds. W 300W/180 noís which staggered him w a bullet right in chest looking straight at me. I put another round in right between the eyes and he fell down hard. A boat tail would have failed but would have worked on an elk at 400.

In closing it should be you want a kill shot to drop your game right now , not blood trail. Gun up, choose the right bullet and know what your effective kill range is. My 300W was beast to shoot until I went to a heavy laminate stock which was much better at 9# and pushed you back but didnít smack you back, but real load in the mountains.

Of course I could be wrong....just ask my 110# wife....she shoots the 06!

Do not listen to any of this ^^^^^
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  #57  
Old 10-05-2021, 09:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thump55 View Post
180gr sighted at 1.5" high at 150 have to aim 8" high at 300, 14" at 350 and 22" at 400
You don't have to aim 8" high. It drops 8" from your line of sight.
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  #58  
Old 10-05-2021, 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Hat Trick View Post
You don't have to aim 8" high. It drops 8" from your line of sight.
If you are shooting my gun and my scope at an elk 300 yards away and you want it to hit the elk in the boiler room, I have to aim 8" high...that's all I know.
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  #59  
Old 10-05-2021, 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by thump55 View Post
If you are shooting my gun and my scope at an elk 300 yards away and you want it to hit the elk in the boiler room, I have to aim 8" high...that's all I know.
10-4. That's what matters
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  #60  
Old 10-05-2021, 02:11 PM
Dacotah Eye Dacotah Eye is online now
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I shoot a 270 using 130 gr core lokt rounds. Never a problem dropping a white tail, muley or antelope. Only shot I had at an elk was at 500 plus yards so I didn't take it. I bought the scope at Heaters in 1975 and it is still deadly. Had a 308 which was also a capable rifle and I gave it to my son.
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