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  #21  
Old 09-13-2021, 08:40 AM
rdiddy rdiddy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikear View Post
I have a 1775 impact on a single axle painted Shoreland’r trailer. Painted vs galvanized in a freshwater environment really depends on the quality of roads you’re driving (I.e. lots of gravel) that will chip the paint. Doing it again, I’d take the ugly galvanized trailer that will stay ugly.

If you will be driving unimproved roads with a higher potential for tire issues, I’d go tandem axle. However, I drive almost exclusively paved roads and have not had any issues with my single axle trailer.

My trailer has rollers. This really depends on your launch site. If launching shallow, low grade ramps, then go roller as you can push the boat off the trailer. If they’re mostly steep or moderate incline, bunk will be just fine. Some say bunks provide more support. In 5 years and thousands of miles I haven’t had issues with my roller trailer in that regard. I also have no launching problems even on steep ramps, just took practice to figure it out.

I do not have trailer brakes and don’t feel I need them. If I lived in a mountainous region I would have brakes.

Spare tire is a no brainer.
What makes launching on a steep launch with a roller trailer require practice to figure it out, other than not taking off your safety latch before you're partially submerged in the water?

I just mentioned this on another post, but I'll write it here too as it seems relevant:

One of the reasons I was eyeballing the roller trailer was because any time I have ever seen a person with a bunk trailer that is more than 4 or 5 years old, the carpeting on the bunks is always damaged or worn right off. In my mind the rollers really wouldn't require as much upkeep, no?
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  #22  
Old 09-13-2021, 08:43 AM
rdiddy rdiddy is offline
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Originally Posted by mikear View Post
I have had two new Mercury four stroke motors. A 2015 90hp and a 2016 115hp. Iíve had no issues, do the maintenance myself, and they sip gas. Buddy has a Honda on his Lund and has the same experience as mine. Just because I like Yamaha, Iíd probably get one if I were in the market today. It really boils down to who is the best mechanic closest to you in case you have an unfortunate engine issue.

All that being said, most of these new motors are really good.

As far as graphs, I have an HDS 9 on the console, I could probably get by with a 10 inch unit but it would be close without getting creative on the mounting. You will lose some line of sight with a 9-10Ē unit, but not harmful in my experience.
Thanks for the feedback on squeezing in a graph on the console. I assume your boat has a full wrap around windshield?
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  #23  
Old 09-13-2021, 08:44 AM
rdiddy rdiddy is offline
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Originally Posted by Dbars19 View Post
Thats interesting. Lund doesnt make the 1775 Crossover anymore, was looking at a 2019 lund book i have. As for electronics, its fairly easy to put a graph on at the helm. But once you start drilling holes into a 60k new boat, you want someone who has done it before. my 2 cent
Are you saying that Lund used to allow a 150 HP max on the 1775's? Thanks
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  #24  
Old 09-13-2021, 09:12 AM
FlyNorth FlyNorth is offline
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I had a 2019 Lund 1775 Impact, now have a 2020 1875 Impact. I made a mistake and went too small and only side console one windshield with the 1775 and got the 1875 full windshield a year later, don't make the same mistake I made. $$$

Now, that being said, the 1775 is a fantastic boat, I had the 115 Merc and it was a great combo! I put a stainless Spitfire prop on it and that made all the difference in the world, this is a must! I put a 10 inch Solix on the 1775 and it fit, I put a 12Ē Solix on the 1875 and it fits, barely. The 1775 is a side console boat and 1875 is full windshield. The 150 Merc on the 1875 is perfect, can get 47mph with a Tempest stainless prop, full fuel and 2 people. Good holeshot and excellent midrange cruise.

Either boat is an excellent choice, make sure you get the optional drawers by your feet and stow and go rod holders. 115 on the 1775 and 150 on the 1875 is plenty!

FN
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  #25  
Old 09-13-2021, 09:55 AM
rdiddy rdiddy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chico View Post
Depending on your fishing style bowmount 24v will do again if budget allows 36v.
I was wondering about that. Any of the 17' or 18' boats I have looked at only offer a 24v trolling motor. If I wanted to wire a 36v system with three batteries, would three large deep cycle batteries fit in a boat of that size, also considering that you need space for your engine battery as well?

I kinda wanted to go with the 36v so I would be more or less guaranteed that I would never drain the battery system from the trolling motor, despite running it heavily for a weekend trip or something

Quote:
Originally Posted by chico View Post
If you go with lowrance bowmount will be motorguide and minn-kota for hummingbird. Largest screen budget allows, not an issue for blindspots as you will soon find out. Being in Ottawa i am sure you will have a marine shop nearby for service of witch ever motor you pick. Do not go with old style steering, pick budget allowing new steering that manufacturer options. Bunk trailer is a lot more user friendly than roller by any means. My last boat i installed my own electronics 10 yrs ago with help from WC and a few other sites, at the age of 56 i was debating but after all these years i am glad i did. As for the seats i would just order with the captain chairs up front as upgrading to smooth seats or others is a simple bolt on option. Full windshield, bimini top helps on those cold mornings and windy days. Being in Ottawa i would go next door and get a Princecraft love the setup and style( i own 18' Crestliner). This is just my opinion and not wanting to engage in one is better than the other. If you ever come west look me up in Calgary and i will take you out for a day or two on an 18' Crestliner to help you in your decision making. I think i have said a bit to much already good luck on your decisions...Chico...
Thanks for all your feedback, I appreciate all the help. Take care
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  #26  
Old 09-13-2021, 10:03 AM
rdiddy rdiddy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyNorth View Post
I had a 2019 Lund 1775 Impact, now have a 2020 1875 Impact. I made a mistake and went too small and only side console one windshield with the 1775 and got the 1875 full windshield a year later, don't make the same mistake I made. $$$

Now, that being said, the 1775 is a fantastic boat, I had the 115 Merc and it was a great combo! I put a stainless Spitfire prop on it and that made all the difference in the world, this is a must! I put a 10 inch Solix on the 1775 and it fit, I put a 12Ē Solix on the 1875 and it fits, barely. The 1775 is a side console boat and 1875 is full windshield. The 150 Merc on the 1875 is perfect, can get 47mph with a Tempest stainless prop, full fuel and 2 people. Good holeshot and excellent midrange cruise.

Either boat is an excellent choice, make sure you get the optional drawers by your feet and stow and go rod holders. 115 on the 1775 and 150 on the 1875 is plenty!

FN
Thanks for stopping in, I appreciate the info.

I have always wanted to go with the full windshield, so no worries there.

I have read conflicting reports on the stainless prop. Some people say they aren't worth it on a smaller boat, others can't live without them. What about them make all the difference in the world to you?

On your 1775 and 1875 what is the longest rod you can store in the onboard rod storage, when in the rod locker or on the stow and go rod holders? I fish musky and have some 8.5' and one 9' rod.

Thanks for your time
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  #27  
Old 09-13-2021, 10:10 AM
mikear mikear is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdiddy View Post
What makes launching on a steep launch with a roller trailer require practice to figure it out, other than not taking off your safety latch before you're partially submerged in the water?

I just mentioned this on another post, but I'll write it here too as it seems relevant:

One of the reasons I was eyeballing the roller trailer was because any time I have ever seen a person with a bunk trailer that is more than 4 or 5 years old, the carpeting on the bunks is always damaged or worn right off. In my mind the rollers really wouldn't require as much upkeep, no?

The reason I purchased a roller was the same as youíre thinking, maintenance. I hate jacking with bunks, therefore I got a roller. Lund does seem to offer a synthetic bunk upgrade option for the trailer.

As far as launching goes, if the launch is steep youíll want the boat almost completely floating so it doesnít take off when detached from the winch. Basically just back in further to get more boat in the water.

As far as loading, youíll have to power load or winch it a significant ways up the trailer. I power load but itís legal here.

And to answer your previous question, I have the side console, not a full wrap around windshield. Sounds like another poster answered your question.
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  #28  
Old 09-13-2021, 10:18 AM
FlyNorth FlyNorth is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdiddy View Post
Thanks for stopping in, I appreciate the info.

I have always wanted to go with the full windshield, so no worries there.

I have read conflicting reports on the stainless prop. Some people say they aren't worth it on a smaller boat, others can't live without them. What about them make all the difference in the world to you?

On your 1775 and 1875 what is the longest rod you can store in the onboard rod storage, when in the rod locker or on the stow and go rod holders? I fish musky and have some 8.5' and one 9' rod.

Thanks for your time
Good questions.

Sorry, cant give you rod length info on the 1775 since i no longer own it and dont remember.
The 1875 center rod box is what Lund quotes. The stow and go holders on the sides will easily stow long Musky rods. Make sure you order the Stow and Go option!

Props…. Ok, here is what I discovered.

Stainless gives you a much better overall connected feel, kinda hard to explain until you have experienced both props. Stainless is a must for 150hp and over and a nice to have between 70 and 115hp.
The Stainless 4 blade Spitfire on the 1775 allowed the boat to accelerate better without cavitation, did not blow out in the turns and a couple more mph in speed.
The 1875 3 blade Tempest stainless had the same improvements as mentioned above. I was going to try the 4 blade Rev 4 on the 1875 just for kicks but since I am going to sell my 1875 Impact I decided to hold off on that. I’m upgrading to a Warrior for the big Great Lakes water.

If you have any other questions feel free to ask

FN

PS, what ever boat you get, buy the mobile vessel view kit that enables you to get full engine data on your phone. Well worth the few hundred bucks. Super plug and play type of installation.

Last edited by FlyNorth; 09-13-2021 at 10:22 AM.
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  #29  
Old 09-13-2021, 10:32 AM
waldowillie waldowillie is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2021
Location: Michigan
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[QUOTE=rdiddy;6596424]Hello all,


You say:

"I am looking at options from Lund, Princecraft, Crestliner and Alumacraft."


"I am wondering when comparing similar 17 to 18 foot offerings from Lund, Princecraft or Crestliner why the maximum horsepower ratings on the Lund typically max out 25+ horsepower less than comparables from Princecraft or Crestliner."


"This greatly factors in to my decision as a 125 or 150 horsepower motor costs considerably less than a 200 that the princecrafts or crestliners state as max... I was always told to max out the HP rating on anything I buy... Why do two different but structurally similar 18' boats that generally weigh the same have such different horsepower capacities?"

Be advised that Brunswick now owns Mercury Outboards and many boat brands including Lund, Crestliner, Lowe, Princecraft, and Sea Ray among others in order to maximize their outboard sales. If the length and weight of 2 boats are nearly equal then the wider beam boat may get a higher horsepower rating and it is the U.S. Coast Guard max. horsepower rating for the boat that you should be fixed on rather than a motor that is presently on it for a sale.
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  #30  
Old 09-13-2021, 10:41 AM
buckmaster7600 buckmaster7600 is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdiddy View Post
One of the reasons I was eyeballing the roller trailer was because any time I have ever seen a person with a bunk trailer that is more than 4 or 5 years old, the carpeting on the bunks is always damaged or worn right off. In my mind the rollers really wouldn't require as much upkeep, no?

Can I ask why you hate them?

I have a Jeep Wrangler 4 door and the max towing capacity on it is apparently only 3500 pounds. How does the second axle alleviate weight restriction concerns?

Thanks for the suggestions

Changing the carpet on a bunk is a 20 minute job at the launch, just donít pick a busy day.

Bunks are generally easier to load, Iím almost always alone and being able to coast up onto the trailer climb down a couple cranks and Iím out of the way is something that Basically canít be done with rollers.

Second axle makes the boat follow your rig more stable. Less chances of an accident in case of a blowout etc.

At 3500#ís can you get into an 18ft boat and be under your tow capacity?

My 20ft tiller with a 150 loaded weighs right at 3500 on the trailer.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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