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18' Lund Alaskan Restoration - Walleye Message Central
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  #1  
Old 04-28-2021, 02:43 PM
Ogama Ogama is offline
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Default 18' Lund Alaskan Restoration

Well, I finally tracked down an older 18 foot Lund Alaskan a few weeks ago. I have a longing for this vintage Alaskan, 1994, since I hunted and fished out of one quite a bit many years ago. They are not as deep and wide as the new ones, nor have as many new features, but do hold their own in bigger water.

For anyone who has or is looking at a Plus 15-year-old Lund boat, its wishful thinking to think that they wont require any work. Unless it was pampered and kept indoors. So are, but most are not.

What started as a routine cleanup lead to removing the first layer of quarter-inch plywood flooring with Indoor/Outdoor carpet, only to find the original vinyl-covered three-quarter-inch plywood decking below. It was as soft as a marshmellow. Totally rotted...Ugh!

After drilling out all the rivets and cutting out the plywood floor, I was able to slide out the remaining floor out from underneath the bench seat which has a livewell inside of it.
Now with the flotation foam was fully exposed, I thought it looked pretty good. However, having towed the boat back on a windy day it sure seemed like I was pulling a 20 Baron!

After having read several other posts across a number of boating forums, I decided to test the foams Condition. None of the foam was stuck to the floor as it should be. All of it was loose and it only took a little bit of work to pull out the last row of foam next to the bilge.

As many have noted in other forums my 28-year-old foam was waterlogged, BIG TIME! In the end, I removed it all which reduced the weight of my boat 275 pounds! That is 10X what it should have weighed when new. The foam is just like a sponge once it broken down from years of water and ice.

Ive ordered new expandable 2-part Urethane foam and other various components including, new Nautolex Vinyl Flooring, seat posts, seat bases etc....

The only outstanding items I have to decide upon and move forward with, are the following.

1) I believe I will need to remove the front bench seat which has the Livewell inside it. It is held in place with mainly pop rivets a few side buck rivets. This is the only way I can get the new flooring with the Nautolex vinyl in place.

Once out, I am trying to decide if I should leave it out semi-permanently keeping the holes in place and use SS screws to secure during fishing season. During Hunting Season, I would keep out out and have a small hatch in floor to access the livewell water lines.

Or, try to install a smaller Livewell near the rear, in the compart at the end which butts up to the transom. It contains foam now and is 12 X 39. I am not worried about taking the foam out and replacing it. This boat has 3 times the foam my Lund S18 which is the same hull. Not to mention, I am putting in all-new foam under the floor.

2) Should I purchase Mirante plywood which costs twice as much $160/sheet 4X8 sheet versus marine grade Douglas Fir. However, it only comes in 4 x 8 sections. The marine grade Douglas Fir can be had in 4X10. I am going to need to use 2 sheets either way.

3) Should I screw floor down with stainless truss head screws, which by the way is used by StarCraft. Or, pop rivet the floor down like they do at the factory. Lots of opinions on this and I have yet to decide.

Feedback would be welcome, from any who has learned from having done this in the past.
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  #2  
Old 04-29-2021, 07:53 PM
Texcl2 Texcl2 is offline
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Does the transom have wood in it? If I were putting all this work into it I would replace the transom wood as well. Then you’d not have to worry for years to come.
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  #3  
Old 04-29-2021, 08:24 PM
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That Minnesota guy That Minnesota guy is offline
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You are going to have a very nice boat for very little money and some elbow grease. Congrats. As mentioned check the transom, if you need to replace use composite and never worry about it again.

Nice project.
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  #4  
Old 04-29-2021, 09:55 PM
Gary Korsgaden Gary Korsgaden is online now
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Default Marine Plywood

3/4" marine plywood Menards has it for $85.00 a sheet
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  #5  
Old 04-30-2021, 04:29 AM
Gary Korsgaden Gary Korsgaden is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary Korsgaden View Post
3/4" marine plywood Menards has it for $85.00 a sheet
Treat it with this stuff never have a issue afterwards

https://www.rotdoctor.com/products/cpes.html



Marine plywood is also stronger and more durable than regular plywood, which has only three layers. Marine plywood has five or more layers that are bound together with waterproof adhesive, which allows it to bear heavier loads and repel moisture from its core
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  #6  
Old 04-30-2021, 08:23 AM
CyFishIowa CyFishIowa is offline
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Could you also build a deck for the bow and put the livewell in there permanently? I just finished doing the same job on a early 80's alumacraft. Had to do the foam and floor and everything as well.

I coated all the wood with epoxy. US composites is the best price I have found and it's quality stuff. http://www.uscomposites.com/epoxy.html Use the 635 thin epoxy, thing it out with denatured alcohol and apply two coats. For foam, I used the total boat foam, took more than I thought it would, but US composites also has foam that I would think would meet the same criteria. It is expensive stuff for what it is.

Definitely check your transom. If the floor was that rotted I bet the transom is on it's way as well. It is an intimidating job, but not that bad if you take your time and take pictures.
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  #7  
Old 04-30-2021, 08:27 AM
CyFishIowa CyFishIowa is offline
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I would also add, use some cardboard or something similar to form a trough and block the foam so that your drainage channels stay open. The new foam will be rear pain in the rear to trim back out so block it start from going where you don't want it. Also, I used a hacksaw blade to trim the top of the foam back flush with the ribbing and it worked pretty well. Feel free to message me if you want any input on the foam or epoxy work.
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  #8  
Old 05-01-2021, 04:29 AM
Gary Korsgaden Gary Korsgaden is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CyFishIowa View Post
Could you also build a deck for the bow and put the livewell in there permanently? I just finished doing the same job on a early 80's alumacraft. Had to do the foam and floor and everything as well.

I coated all the wood with epoxy. US composites is the best price I have found and it's quality stuff. http://www.uscomposites.com/epoxy.html Use the 635 thin epoxy, thing it out with denatured alcohol and apply two coats. For foam, I used the total boat foam, took more than I thought it would, but US composites also has foam that I would think would meet the same criteria. It is expensive stuff for what it is.

Definitely check your transom. If the floor was that rotted I bet the transom is on it's way as well. It is an intimidating job, but not that bad if you take your time and take pictures.
good stuff at a reasonable price.....thanks for sharing this.....

Here is another good one price includes shipping looks to be the same price when you add shipping

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


What size engine is on the boat..?

Last edited by Gary Korsgaden; 05-01-2021 at 04:47 AM.
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  #9  
Old 05-01-2021, 05:50 AM
jfaisten jfaisten is offline
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great project
anyplace you can use a ss screw rather than a rivet I'd do it. My guess is rivets are used in the factory because they're cheaper and faster to install than screws.
Good luck
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Asheville NC
2005 Boston Whaler 190, 150 OptiMax -- sold
2007 Triton 220 LTS, 225 E-Tec -- sold
2013 Lund 1800 Tyee, 150 Merc 4S -- sold
2015 Lund 2000 Alaskan SS, Mercury 4S 115 CT -- sold
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  #10  
Old 05-01-2021, 12:09 PM
kswalleyer kswalleyer is offline
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I absolutely love watching boat refurbs, wish I had the interest or more likely the ability....Look forward to watching this progress!

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