Lund boat owners, rotting transom issues

[walleye-bum]

Wouldn't a rotten transom be covered under the factory warrenty? I have a lifetime warrenty on all decking in my pro v. So I would assume the wood in the transom would be the same??

Curious to hear if this would be covered under warrenty or if the owner is left on his own.

[hempbake1]

The hull warranty is only good to the original owner from Lund.

[REW]

Mci,
I like the idea of the aluminum transom design.
Should be nice and light and plenty strong with never an issue with rot again.

REW

I just wish that all boats would get rid of wood. Then the issue of rot would be long gone.

[tikka]

Originally Posted by hempbake1

The hull warranty is only good to the original owner from Lund.

You are correct, but this is for the lifetime warranty. The subsequent owners get a 10 year decreasing warranty, which is not all that bad.
I actually had to change the transom on my 2004 lund this winter and since I am not the original owner, lund paid 30% of the repair cost. It is better than nothing I guess.

[Flip Silverlake]

It depends on what year the boat was built. The 2000 warrenty only covers dubble riveted seams for life, laminated parts are pro-rated for 3 years. Since 2006 everything is warrentied for the life of the boat. That is why its important to have this transom repaired by Lund. That way you get the newest material that they are using.

[popi]

the hull truth- look up transom repairs-lots of valuable info

I had a rotten transom on my last boat, a 87 Tuffy Sportsman. Wood wasn't appealing to me so I looked for alternatives.I liked the idea of a composite insert like they use in other boats but they were specially constructed in purpose built molds out of pultruded fiberglass...out of my league as a home fabricator.

What I did find was a supplier of pultruded panels used in decks and walls primarily for electrical installations, it wasn't that cheap but it slots together like Lego and can be cut with a plain skil saw and bonded with a variety of high tech polyurethane adhesives.

I bought two lengths of these panels which was enough to laminate two thicknesses together layed at 90 degrees to each other. I used the hollow core Durashield panels made by Strongwell laminates and bonded them together with 3M adhesive, can't remember the part number of the adhesive but the supplier of the panels had it in caulking tube format with the premixing tips like epoxy comes with typically.

I had to scuff the panel surface with 80 grit to get through the durashield woven exterior coat but once the panels were prepped and bonded in the proper shape it was was extremely strong for its weight. Total weight of the form I fabricated and glassed into the boat was half the weight of the same 2" thickness of plywood. I was very impressed with how easy it was to work and how it turned out.

With a Lund transom I'm not sure if you could do the same thing just because the top side ledges would be in the way of sliding in a complete section preassembled but I'm sure something could be figured out. For the transom motor bolt holes they sell fiberglass tubing that you can bond inside the pultrusions that will reinforce this critical area.

It's cool stuff but not cheaper than wood, check out the website below...I would do it again...wasn't much more work than wood and way lighter and stronger.

http://www.strongwell.com/products/p...ctural_panels/

[Phil-]

I noticed you are talking about welding supports on the transom instead of replacing the wood, is this bad or a good idea ? I recently acquired a 1988 Lund Baron ware the owner had remove a the wood in the transom and ran it like that for a few years, says ya don't need it, just makes the boat heaver.
I don't agree and will fix this. I have no pattern or idea ware the wood goes. However I have access to a Very good welder and was considering welding in support. I'm kind of leaning towards welding aluminum half round
stock for the support's.
Any ideas !

[REW]

Bad idea.
Install either a replacement wood or a composite transom board.
It is actually pretty simple and straight forward.

If you have a lift to take off the motor, you can do the job in a couple of days.

Good luck

[Phil-]

Thanks REW, was hoping you might reply. I expected a different reply tho, in an early post you seemed to think an all aluminum transom might be a good idea. My Baron is a 1988 she's an I/O so I don't think I'll have to remove the motor, Will I ? Also I didn't remove the wood so I have no idea ware the wood was or how it replace it. Hope you can help....thanks Phil