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  #1  
Old 10-25-2021, 07:50 PM
Thalweg Thalweg is offline
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Default Pressurized Lower Unit Filler

I have been filling my lower units with a hand pump that attaches to a one quart bottle. The process has always been a bit frustrating using that contraption; way to many strokes needed to fill lower unit, would get airlocked (for no apparent reason) several times during a fill and always leaked oil in the bottom of my cabinet. As such, I decided to assemble a pressurized filler (see photo). In case anyone is interested, it consists of a one gallon gas can; two tubeless tire valve stem assemblies (core removed from the outlet stem), 1/4 inch tubing; 1/4 inch quarter turn ball valve; tubing clamps and the end that threads into the motor (salvaged from the hand pump). I loaded it up with SAE 90, used my bicycle tire pump to put about 5 to 10 psi in to the gas can and filled two lower units today - so far I am pleased with it. If I build another, I may 1) use a metal can (e.g., one gallon WD40 or Seafoam can). This may allow a few more PSIs to speed up the filling process. However, the plastic can makes it easier to determine how munch fluid is left and how fast it is being transferred, and 2) may use slightly larger tubing/ball valve to speed up the fill process. However, warming up the oil in the house would thin the oil and make less viscous.
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  #2  
Old 10-25-2021, 08:02 PM
Ndstallmann Ndstallmann is offline
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I used a 4 PVC pipe with a flat bottom cap. Drilled and tap a 1/4 pipe. Also ran a clear tube from top to bottom, put a adapter to a 2 pipe plug to fill it. Also run the air hose in the pipe plug.
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  #3  
Old 10-26-2021, 06:34 AM
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last chance last chance is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thalweg View Post
I have been filling my lower units with a hand pump that attaches to a one quart bottle. The process has always been a bit frustrating using that contraption; way to many strokes needed to fill lower unit, would get airlocked (for no apparent reason) several times during a fill and always leaked oil in the bottom of my cabinet. As such, I decided to assemble a pressurized filler (see photo). In case anyone is interested, it consists of a one gallon gas can; two tubeless tire valve stem assemblies (core removed from the outlet stem), 1/4 inch tubing; 1/4 inch quarter turn ball valve; tubing clamps and the end that threads into the motor (salvaged from the hand pump). I loaded it up with SAE 90, used my bicycle tire pump to put about 5 to 10 psi in to the gas can and filled two lower units today - so far I am pleased with it. If I build another, I may 1) use a metal can (e.g., one gallon WD40 or Seafoam can). This may allow a few more PSIs to speed up the filling process. However, the plastic can makes it easier to determine how munch fluid is left and how fast it is being transferred, and 2) may use slightly larger tubing/ball valve to speed up the fill process. However, warming up the oil in the house would thin the oil and make less viscous.
man you need to get a patent on that contraption!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! it might be worth a lot of money to some company.
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  #4  
Old 10-26-2021, 06:48 AM
andersaki andersaki is offline
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This idea sounds suspiciously like a brake bleeder. Add a shut off valve and the tip from your manual filler and Bob's your uncle.
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  #5  
Old 10-26-2021, 07:18 AM
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Originally Posted by andersaki View Post
This idea sounds suspiciously like a brake bleeder. Add a shut off valve and the tip from your manual filler and Bob's your uncle.
I'm not 100%sure but I think a brake bleeder sucks.
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Old 10-26-2021, 07:30 AM
andersaki andersaki is offline
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I'm not 100%sure but I think a brake bleeder sucks.
Yes, some brake bleeders do suck. The one pictured in my other post pressurizes the system FROM the master cylinder, so by opening the bleeder valve at the brakes, the system will bleed out the air. So, I guess that you could say that it blows.
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  #7  
Old 10-26-2021, 07:35 AM
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Clairebear Clairebear is online now
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No a brake bleeder pushes and would work fine. I just caution everyone about filling too fast. Slower and steady is best to ensure all the bubbles within the drive are pushed up.
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  #8  
Old 10-26-2021, 08:29 AM
Thalweg Thalweg is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ndstallmann View Post
I used a 4 PVC pipe with a flat bottom cap. Drilled and tap a 1/4 pipe. Also ran a clear tube from top to bottom, put a adapter to a 2 pipe plug to fill it. Also run the air hose in the pipe plug.
Thx. I like this idea better than my metal can idea.

Quote:
Originally Posted by andersaki View Post
This idea sounds suspiciously like a brake bleeder. Add a shut off valve and the tip from your manual filler and Bob's your uncle.
Thanks, did not realize a brake bleeder blew. May have been a good option (more cost effective) if I did not already have a bicycle pump.

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Originally Posted by Clairebear View Post
No a brake bleeder pushes and would work fine. I just caution everyone about filling too fast. Slower and steady is best to ensure all the bubbles within the drive are pushed up.
Initial results indicate it does not fill too fast and is far more steady than my hand pump. Still takes a few minutes to complete the fill. In my case, I have less chance of getting air trapped since no air is injected during filling. With my old hand pump, when it "airlocked" air would be pushed up the tube and into the lower unit before oil would start flowing again. Not sure how much pressure/how much larger tubing would be required to fill it too fast but I suspect it is possible and I agree it could be a bad thing.
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  #9  
Old 10-26-2021, 10:09 PM
REW REW is offline
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Another technique that works very well is to use an air compressor and a pressure regulator.

Set the pressure at 3 psi and feed the oil supply tank with the constant supply of 3 psi pressure. Then, simply screw in the fill nozzle, open the vent plug at the top of the lower unit oil reservoir, and open the oil supply line. When clean oil with no bubbles coming out of the vent hole on the top of the lower unit supply - turn off the oil supply insert the vent plug, unscrew the oil fill from the bottom of the reservoir and screw in the lower unit drain plug.
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  #10  
Old 10-27-2021, 03:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andersaki View Post
Yes, some brake bleeders do suck. The one pictured in my other post pressurizes the system FROM the master cylinder, so by opening the bleeder valve at the brakes, the system will bleed out the air. So, I guess that you could say that it blows.
yep, you could have fooled me. thanks for the info. I always thought that pneumatic bleeders sucked and now I find out they blow the fluid to the master cylinder. that would be so great on a trailer brake system.
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