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Second garage or storage building
Doing a bit of forward planning here with regards to a second garage or metal storage building for our retirement home in northern WI.
Home we built has a three car garage but I'd like a second garage for my truck and boat. I'd have it placed on a concrete slab and be at least 24' x 30' deep. Not sure of the height of the door or pitch of the roof. A builder called me this morning and said for a wood garage on a concrete slab the estimated price would be about $40K. Did not know if this is a fair price or not - though I doo feel it to be high. This is the first person I have spoken to. If anyone out there can share with me their experiences / offer suggestions as to garages or storage buildings, I would appreciate this.
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Kingfisher Warrior Sport Yamaha 150 hp EZ Loader Garmin Last edited by Juls; 10-03-2021 at 05:29 AM. |
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#2
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Sounds high but I am not highly experienced in this area.
I would suggest going the route of least maintenance required. This would allow more free time in the long run...... |
#3
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with a metal pole barn, the biggest cost is if you have a cement floor poured. i have a 30X40X10' high and I just have about 4" of real small gravel for the floor. after it sets or gets wet it is hard. then you can have a slab poured if that's what you want but I never saw the need. now if I was storing for long periods I might reconsider. it's the only way to go if you want to save thousands. you can do just about anything you want with a metal pole barn. i have a 9' electric overhead door in the front then I have a 10' sliding door on one side of the end of the barn but it would be easy to install another 10' door on the other side. you could put overhead doors on the end and put a 10' on the other end and drive all the way through. it's all up to you with a metal barn.
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#4
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My shop was built in Nov of 2019. Its 30x48x12. 2 10x10 doors and an 8x8 with a walkthrough door. Radiant heat barrier is the only insulation. It has a single walkthrough door and 4" of concrete. My price installed on a level site was $27,400.
It cost me another $4k to have the site leveled, and have the rock bought and hauled in. Probably close to $1200 for me to run the electricity, install 3 garage door openers, led lights, outlets, etc. Gutters were $800. I wish I would've oriented it length wise and just had the 2 10x10 doors on one end. Then my truck and boat could be on one side and the tractor and SxS would be on the other. https://images.platforum.cloud/uploa...41eeb4f56d.jpg
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2021 Crestliner 1750 Fishhawk WT JS 115 Mercury Pro XS Last edited by Thatguy; 10-02-2021 at 11:21 AM. |
#5
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Will you also use it as a shop? if so that brings up many more things to consider, insulation, lighting, ect. In the end if you do it right, it won't be cheap. |
#6
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Well, you can never have a big enough gun safe or a big enough garage.
Are they insulating? pulling electrical? sheetrock or osb on the inside walls? I built a storage garage for my camper. It is 20x30, and is a little too small. I'd like to upgrade to a 5th wheel, but the door is only 11' high. I recommend at least a 12' high door. In retrospect, I would have built a 30x40 shop. One thing you might do to save $$, is to not pour the floor now. Pour the stemwalls and the entry door pads, and gravel the center. Unless you are rolling something with casters around, or you need an easily cleanable floor, you can save some cash by doing that later. |
#7
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This the garage we had built in 2006. 20' wide and 25' deep. The paint is baked on to the metal, so all we do is power wash once a year. it's been through 2 100mph+ hurricanes. Cost was $13000, slab included. Only regret is that I should have went with the next wider door. It is not insulated, which would have added another $3000.
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#8
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If you want a concrete floor do it when you build. I can think of 6 people off the top of my head that said they would pour it later and never did. My folks built their shop when I was in 1st grade and didnt do concrete it to save money. Im 37 now for context. My father says its one of his biggest regrets. You'll get so much in it you will never want to drag it out to concrete it.
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#9
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Since this is a retirement home. I would do the concrete right away. Sucks doing any work on gravel. Just have to decide if you are going to have all your fishing gear in the garage also. Work on the boat and fishing gear during winter. Then I would think about installing the tubes in the concrete for heat. Works way better then just trying to heat the air. The concrete always stays cold during winter unless you have the in floor heating. You could have the tubes installed. Then decide in the future if you want heat. As far as door height. I would say 8 foot high. Would be minimum for me. If it is going to be far northern Wisconsin. Make sure you put enough pitch on the roof. Keeps snow from building up to much. As far as cost. I believe lumber is starting to come down some. Plus it seems like builders are petty booked up. Same issues about finding enough help. So building quotes may be on the high side. If you do go the metal shed route. Get insulation between the rafters and roof. Not only will it help with condensation dripping inside the building. It will be a decent amount quieter when it is raining. Metal roofs are loud when raining.
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2024 Warrior 208 2024 Mercury 300 verado Last edited by Snowking; 10-02-2021 at 10:27 PM. |
#10
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yes if you want concrete it should be poured when you build. you'll find it cheaper if it's figured into the price of the barn. and its much easier to pour before it is built. but you would be surprized at the reason so many people don't ever go back later and pour is that they are happy with fine gravel and don't need concrete. |
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