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  #41  
Old 09-14-2021, 09:26 PM
rdiddy rdiddy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Pothen View Post
Rdiddy. Pm sent

Replied, thank you. I am unfamiliar with the layout of this site yet, I didn't know I had a PM until you mentioned it here.


@ REW and others, work is keeping me busy but I will endeavour to dig into your comments ASAP. Thanks for the continued feedback.


Rob
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  #42  
Old 09-15-2021, 11:31 AM
rdiddy rdiddy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by REW View Post
A couple of thoughts:
For a motor - I would go with a Yamaha or a Suzuki

Go with your choice of boat. If you want a softer and drier ride, go with a glass boat.

For a depth finder, go with a 12 inch screen. Be aware of the size so that you can be sure that the windshield and console layout will permit its installation.

You might consider the Lowrance Ghost trolling motor in the 36 volt motor with its brushless and cable free design.

If going with the Ghost, then go with Lowrance Electronics so that everything is plug and play.

For a trailer, go with a combo roller and bunk. That gives you the best of both world. Special order the trailer so that all rollers on the trailer are 12 inch wide self centering rollers all of the way from the stern to the bow of the trailer. Easy loading, but still have the stability and hull cushion of a bunk. The 12 inch wide self centering rollers insure easy loading and unloading every time.

Note:
Any time that you launch at a very steep launch, while in the parking lot, disconnect your safety chain, and snap on a 20 foot lead rope. Then, take the lead rope and put a couple of wraps around the winch stand. Now, back down to the water, with the winch strap still tight and locked. Once you you are in launching position at the top of the very steep loading area, hold the double wrapped lead rope tight. Then, tighten the winch enough to unlock it and ease off the tension on the winch, while holding the boat in place with the lead rope. Due to the tension likely on the lead rope you will likely not be able to unsnap the winch hook at this point. So, just loosen the lead rope a bit, to allow the boat to begin to move back. At the earliest opportunity when the tension on the lead rope becomes more loose, unsnap the winch strap and then continue to pay out line until the boat is fully launched.

Best wishes with your boat, motor, and trailer search. Last year, the order to delivery time for many folks was 15-18 months. There are a lot of folks that ordered a boat 18 months ago, are just now getting their rigs. So, the sooner you order, the better the chance for you to have a boat and motor and trailer for the bulk of next years season.

I believe that you mentioned that you are in Canada? If so, double check with others and find out if the HP restrictions on the hulls are being enforced in your areas. I have a lot of Canadian friends who routinely run boats with motors that are 50-100 hp above the hull ratings. Don't know if it is legal or not in your area.


Take care
Hi REW,

Unfortunately I am not sure it's in my budget for a fiberglass boat... plus the waters I fish are notorious for having submerged shoals and deadheads a plenty. I have often heard that those things don't bode well for a fiberglass boat. Should that be overlooked?

Thanks for your recommendation on the trolling motor - I was intitially considering a minn kota ulterra but I will review the lowrance unit you mentioned.

I wasn't aware that those trailer options you mentioned were even a possibility. It's clear I have more research to do, thanks for the information!

I need to get my hands on my rig and get some practice in - I am sure that my first few launches are going to be downright comical, and embarrassing. I am going to print out your recommendation and save it for when I actually get to give it a whirl. I have a feeling I am going to spend a bit of time in a big wide open parking lot first to get my feet wet.

Does the boating / fishing community generally expect that this "boat shortage / long lead time" is going to continue on for the foreseeable future? I am in the midst of banking up money and was biding my time while the money gets saved up by researching.

Should I pull the trigger early and put down a deposit to get myself into the queue, or will that situation ever resolve itself?

Thanks very much REW
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  #43  
Old 09-15-2021, 11:44 AM
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FlyNorth FlyNorth is offline
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I have the MinnKota Ultera on my Lund Impact coupled with the Humminbird Solix, works wonderfully, FYI. What ever you get trolling motor wise, get “spot lock”, that is what MinnKota calls it, the electronic anchor feature. It’s a VERY nice feature!

FN
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  #44  
Old 09-15-2021, 08:36 PM
rdiddy rdiddy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyNorth View Post
I have the MinnKota Ultera on my Lund Impact coupled with the Humminbird Solix, works wonderfully, FYI. What ever you get trolling motor wise, get ďspot lockĒ, that is what MinnKota calls it, the electronic anchor feature. Itís a VERY nice feature!

FN

Hi FlyNorth


If you were fishing muskie with that rig where you often have a guy in the bow doing figure 8's for fish that notoriously stalk a lure and you have to coax them to eat, would a trolling motor constantly rotating it's direction and running interfere with that at all given the guy at the bow would be doing it pretty much right beside the motor all the time?


Thanks
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  #45  
Old 09-15-2021, 09:39 PM
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FlyNorth FlyNorth is offline
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Ruddy,

I don't think the trolling motor would have any effect. When in spot lock it really doesn't move around and turn the motor on much and when it does it just short low power spurts. Iím not a Musky expert but honestly I doubt it would have any effect, in fact, until you mentioned it, I never really gave it any thought.

FN
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  #46  
Old 09-16-2021, 09:24 AM
mikear mikear is offline
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I routinely catch walleye early in the spring in a few feet of water while spot locked. Obviously a different species, but it has worked for me.

Iíve had some form of spot lock since 2015 and it has truly changed the way I fish for the better.

Another couple notes to consider:
1. If Lund still uses the recreational series battery chargers, Iíd consider getting a better charger and install yourself or by the dealer. Mine was 6a per bank I believe and sometimes the trolling motor batteries were not fully charged in the morning after fishing hard the previous day. I have a MK330PC (3 bank, 10a per bank) that has been excellent, there are other good/better brands as well.

2. Donít let the dealer cheap out on the batteries. Both of my new boats had one or more of the TM batteries fail within a year, cheapest batteries they could install. I would recommend AGM, Gel, or lithium. Iíve got 5 years in a set of 100ah gel batteries for my TM and have never ran them down in a 12 hour day of fishing stiff wind.

3. Research the electronics power requirements for the graphs you choose. Often times the wire from the house or starting battery is not of sufficient gauge to power these modern graphs. It may work, but youíll have excess voltage drop and issues are common with low voltage.
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  #47  
Old 09-16-2021, 02:24 PM
WalleyeJoe2020 WalleyeJoe2020 is offline
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Default G3 Option

Diddy-
I was in the same "Boat" for the last couple years too. I looked at about a dozen of the "top" names in the industry. There are a lot of good boats to choose from, but after piles of spreadsheets, comparisons, and well all the due diligence required to get what you need and what you want I landed on a G3 Angler AV18SF. Its on order should get in March next year. Just another one for you to look at.


My primary reasons, [may not be your reasons] were:
[1] Functionality of the boat, layout, all vinyl etc.
[2] NO WOOD or other materials for the transoms [All aluminum]

[3] Yamaha motors - tested by Yamaha on the boat for perfect fit to the boat for proper performance - includes stainless prop

[4] The gauges appear to be of much better quality than many
[5] Transducer mounting plate pre welded to transom -

[6] New EZ Loader trailers
[7] Many items that are "options" with other brands are "standard" IE radio


So quick list, just more for you think about, good luck in your search, happy fishing!!
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  #48  
Old 09-16-2021, 06:41 PM
alanexpup alanexpup is offline
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Default Must do.

Fuel injection in the engine. 1 handle engine control. Kicker engine controlled at driver position. Electric trolling motor remote controlled.
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take a fish boating
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  #49  
Old 09-16-2021, 07:30 PM
simo simo is offline
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Do your own electronics. If anything happens down the road, you’ll be able to trouble shoot you self much easier, especially if your on the water or a trip.

I have a alumacraft trophy 175 w140suzuki. Great set up… but as most people have mentioned, I often find myself thinking, wish I had a slightly bigger boat, I’ve never once thought my boat was too big.

Good luck.
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  #50  
Old 09-16-2021, 07:35 PM
rebelrn2001 rebelrn2001 is offline
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Didn’t read all the posts but I ALWAYS have to add a 3rd cleat midship (at least it’s the case for both Lund and Crestliner). I run a tiller so not sure about how console boats are rigged but the bow cleat is always too far forward to adequately protect the mid part of the boat.
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