Electric Brake Issues on Boat Trailers?

[lassh]

I’m going to start with my main question at this point. “Has anyone had negative experience with electric trailer brakes due to corrosion etc. on fresh water boat trailer?”
Now I will go into explanation. I have decided to install trailer brakes on my Phoenix single axle (3625# axle) used to transport Alumacraft Navigator 175 with F90 tiller and 8HP kicker. Weight of boat and gear about 2100#. I did the searches on this website and You Tube etc. I want to install the brakes myself. I had decided to install self adjusting, electric brakes. The trailer currently does not have brakes but does have the mounting plate.
I called Dexter with my axle number to see what components I would need. He said that I do not want to put electric brakes on a boat trailer because water and electric don’t mix and that the magnet gets all corroded.
Have any of you had experience with this- good or bad? I was leaning toward electric brakes due to relatively easier installation and it can reduce trailer sway (I have never had an issue with trailer sway but that doesn’t mean that I won’t at some point).
What are you’re considered opinions?

[Ndstallmann]

I never had electric brakes on a boat trailer. With that being said I did have them on a livestock trailer. About four years and they started causing problems. Bad connection here broken wire there. Trailer battery that needs that needs to charged and replace periodically. Never had problems with the magnet. But have had hydraulic brakes on the boat trailer for 11 years, and not had a problem .

[Clairebear]

Hydraulic surge brakes for boats.

[rswan]

I asked of electric brakes when I ordered my boat. The dealer told me that the industry tried electric brakes for boats, but it didn't go well so surge brakes were the only available option.

[wh500special]

I have electric brakes on my boat trailer. I’ve not had any issues and if I was doing it over I’d install them again. They offer functional advantages on the road over surge which more than compensated for any perceived water incompatibilities.

It’s intuitive to say that electricity and water don’t mix and just dismiss electric brakes as being a fool’s mission. But the brakes don’t get any wetter on a trailer that is submerged a couple of feet in the water than they do driving down the interstate in the rain (yes, even when considering hydrostatic pressure). Aside from your wire splices, the only electrical part of an electric braking system is the electromagnet. And it is potted in epoxy.

The mechanical brake components are nearly the same when comparing surge to electric. All of it will eventually rust and cause problems whether you have an electric or surge system. But there isn’t anything unique to an electric system to make them unsuitable.

Eventually the magnets will wear through and fail. But that isn’t a function of being on a boat trailer. That’s just what they do.

Salt water might be a different story. I don’t know if there are differences in surge brakes for saltwater applications or not. But I assume you’ll stick to freshwater.

A couple of links;

https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.wal...t=714920&amp=1

https://www.walleyecentral.com/forum.../t-670745.html

Steve

[lassh]

Another factor that was influencing me to look at electric brakes is that the coupler on trailer is welded on. How can that be modified to accept an actuator/ coupler?

[Shellback]

Originally Posted by lassh

Another factor that was influencing me to look at electric brakes is that the coupler on trailer is welded on. How can that be modified to accept an actuator/ coupler?

Depends on the tongue length you need. When I removed my standard coupler on my Shorelandr trailer and installed a hydraulic coupler, I gained a few inches in length. Had to lengthen my safety chains. If you can afford to lose a few inches in length, just cut the welded coupler off and bolt the hydraulic one on.

[bfish]

I wanted to convert my boat trailer over to electric brakes, but would have taken new hubs to do so and wasn't worth it. I do love electric brakes on my enclosed trailer (used for my landscaping business).

[lassh]

Yeah, I'm going to have to add drums or rotors no matter which way I go since there are no brakes right now. If i install surge brakes I will also have to cut/modify/replace my swing tongue coupler to add the actuator/coupler. I had searched and read all the previous posts referenced here. I had decided to go with electric brakes but wanted more information after talking to the Dexter tech.

[Bobby Winds]

Originally Posted by lassh

Yeah, I'm going to have to add drums or rotors no matter which way I go since there are no brakes right now. If i install surge brakes I will also have to cut/modify/replace my swing tongue coupler to add the actuator/coupler. I had searched and read all the previous posts referenced here. I had decided to go with electric brakes but wanted more information after talking to the Dexter tech.

Unless you are towing with a small SUV you don't need brakes for your light rig. My rig is right around 3k normally and I"m sure over that when we go for a week long fishing trip and I don't have trailer brakes. Instead of adding trailer brakes I upgraded to much better brakes on my truck by adding Slotted Rotors and Carbon Metallic brake pads.........HUGE difference in braking/stopping and I get the benefit of them even when I'm not towing. This can easily be done in a afternoon by yourself and for about $200 per axle thru Rockauto.com

I recommend starting with the front brakes and see how much better stopping is and then do the same for the rear axle on your tow vehicle if you want even more stopping power.

Bob