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  #1  
Old 06-02-2020, 06:24 PM
Bigfishhunter Bigfishhunter is offline
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Default Tiller Torque

Just need some help figuring out a little bit of adjustment on my toque tab and my motor/prop set up.

Short story, motor really pushes on my hand/thumb when trimmed all the way up no matter how much I adjust the tab. Details below.

I just purchased a new boat. 185 Competitor with a Yamaha Vmax SHO 90hp motor.

Traded in my 185 Competitor with yamaha F90

I took the prop I was running, a Powertech RED 13.25"x15p propeller. This worked awesome on my old boat, and I didnt' think that I would need much different for a prop, at least it would be a good starting point.

Old boat had the motor mounted as high as it could go, and that's where I got the best performance (6000 rpm, cavitation plate just touching the surface of the water, running 34/35 mph.

New boat, I started the motor in the highest position like where the old one was. After break in, I cracked it wide open to see what it does. Cavitation plate comes out of the water quite a bit, especially when trimmed up, But the pressure of the handle on my hand is too much to handle. I can't use my thumb to trim, and it wouldn't be comfortable running across a lake for even two miles like that. WOT, and trimmed all the way, I am hitting 6400 rpms and 36-37 mph.

So, I proceed to adjust the trim tab. No matter which way I adjust I can't get rid of the torque.

So, I drop it down a hole. Basically same result, very similar nunbers.

I drop it another hole. It is now in the hole where the dealer had it set. (second hole from the top, third highest position, second lowest position).
I put my torque tab dead center a bit. This time it is the most comfortable, at 3/4 trim and WOT. Cavitation plate is just below the surface. RPM's are 6000 speed is 35.5mph
If I trim up completely the torque is there, not quite as bad, but what I would call uncomfortable. So, I adjust it a hair to the left. That's better, but at full trim where the cavitation plate comes out of the water, the torque seems to always be there.

I can't get that last bit of rpm and that last mph without that pressure of the motor pressing on me.

Could it be a propping issue? drop it down another hole?? I don't really want to do that.
I've always been able to run my tillers comfortably fully trimmed WOT for long distance without any torque. THis is the first motor to do this.

My old motor had a straight toque tab. This one has a bit of a curve to it.
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  #2  
Old 06-02-2020, 07:20 PM
Hot Runr Guy Hot Runr Guy is online now
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When you are trimmed-up, you are pulling the torque tab out of the water, reducing it's effectiveness. You might need to add this to the skeg to help.

https://thmarinesupplies.com/products/torque-tab

Or, see if a longer tab is available, provided it clears the prop.

HRG
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  #3  
Old 06-02-2020, 07:28 PM
Bigfishhunter Bigfishhunter is offline
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yeah, that's what I was thinking was happening. And why it got better when I don't trim it out and dropped the motor.

Dang, can't say I really want to drill holes in my skeg, but if it will help, whats the big deal. And, then I can put the motor higher again.

Needs to go on the port side, correct?
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  #4  
Old 06-02-2020, 07:43 PM
Hot Runr Guy Hot Runr Guy is online now
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Most I've seen have been on the starboard side, but it depends which way your motor is pulling.

HRG
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  #5  
Old 06-02-2020, 08:31 PM
muskyed muskyed is offline
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Lower the motor one hole, and try it there. Raising the engine too much just to get the rpm's you would like, is not always the best way to go. If you are getting high steering torque, and your cavitation plate is out of the water under trim, you are too high with the engine height, Dropping it one hole will probably correct your steering, and only cost you about 100-150 rpm, but give you a much better handling, and all around performing boat. Not only that, but with a too high engine height, with a strong steering torque, your boat is dangerous. As you have probably noticed, when at full power, if you were to back off the throttle suddenly, your boat will most likely want to snap the handle the other way, also if trying to turn under power trimmed up too much, you could easily break loose and spin out.
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  #6  
Old 06-02-2020, 08:52 PM
Bigfishhunter Bigfishhunter is offline
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HotRunr - My motor handle wants to go to starboard. It is pushing against me. If I were to let go (when at full trim, it would hit me in the ribs). So, in my mind putting it on the port side would correct that and "rudder" it the other direction. ??

Muskyed - I always was under the impression that the goal was to have the cavitation plate riding above the water. Under was less than ideal.
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  #7  
Old 06-02-2020, 09:39 PM
muskyed muskyed is offline
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If you are still getting torque, after adjusting your torque tab, when trimming up all the way, due to your torque tab and cav plate coming out of the water, your engine is too high, it's just that simple. You do not have a race boat, race engine, or surfacing prop that would have the need to put a tab on your skeg, as in the picture submitted. If you look at that picture, those engines are mounted extremely high, with surfacing props that are made to work at very high engine heights. Exactly the opposite of what you have. The goal is to have your boat work as it was designed to. That usually ends up being with the cav plate approximately at the water line under power. Not all will perform best there. Some high horse power performance bass boats may perform best with the cav plate a touch out of the water, while most general fishing boats will perform best at the water line, or slightly below. Your engine height also may be fine now, and you may just be over trimming to get your rpms up. If you are gaining rpm's , but not speed, when you trim up that last little bit, you are over trimming for the prop that you have, and there is no point in trimming any higher, if your speed doesn't keep climbing when your rpm' are going up.
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  #8  
Old 06-03-2020, 05:27 PM
peter8 peter8 is offline
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Another option would be to put a Tiller Assist unit on the motor. I ran a 60 hp tiller for years without any problem. When I upgraded boats and had a 90 Yamaha to wrestle it was another story. "Most" of the time it wasn't an issue. But I remember the 13 mile run in some rough stuff on Green Bay that had me looking for some relief. I actually braced my feet on the side of the gunnel and had to pull toward me to hold straight.
I ordered the Tiller Assist from Jon and it was a easy install...(just watch the U tube video). Problem solved, I mounted the hold button on a 4"x 12" piece of cutting board and move it to where ever and use my foot to press when running. You can also lock your motor in place when trailering to Stop the flop so to speak. That was 2 years ago and no problems .... it was reasonably priced, easy to install and works great. Jon is a great guy to work with also. You will not be sorry , it will be money well spent !!

P.S. I am running a 175 Navigator, F90 mounted one hole from being all the way up, Spitfire SS 17P prop. Light load 37 mph @ 6000 rpm, loaded 34-35 @ 5800 rpm.

Last edited by peter8; 06-03-2020 at 05:38 PM.
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  #9  
Old 06-03-2020, 07:56 PM
gapr gapr is offline
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Hey Bigfishhunter. I agree with peter8, treat yourself to tiller assist. You will appreciate it going across big Athapap with some wind looking for the Lakers. You need that arm in good shape for reeling in those beasts up there. Iíve got the mercury power steering on my tiller but I know guys that have the tiller assist and they like it.
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  #10  
Old 06-04-2020, 07:05 PM
gastay gastay is offline
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Location: Longville MN.
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Those little torque tabs that HRG referred to are the cats a*s. They work very well. Have your local prop guy weld it in place, grind/sand down the leading edge to a nice flowing finish and paint the area to match the rest of the outboard. No one will ever notice unless you point out.
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