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  #21  
Old 12-06-2011, 06:44 AM
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I actually use 2 toaster ovens, 1 to heat the jigs for the paint and the second to cure the paint. I use the cheap $20 ovens from wal-mart with and oven thermometer inside ($5). Toaster oven temp settings aren't very accurate and the thermometer is a must.



I can heat 40 or more jigs at a time for painting, this save a lot of time over heating the jigs one at a time with a heat gun or flame.



I also know exactly what temperature my jig is when I stick it in the paint, this is very important because if your jig is too hot too much paint will stick to it and the paint will run and drip when you try to cure it. A lot of people have this problem and don't cure their jigs properly, this makes the paint brittle and it will chip and peel easily.

When a powder painted jig is cured properly you can hold it by the hook as high as you can reach and drop it on a concrete floor and the paint won't chip, the lead will dent but the paint won't chip. I test one or 2 of my jigs like this with every batch I paint.

I don't use a fluid bed, they're messy, waste paint, not all colors work with them, and you need to wear a dust mask when using one. Most people think the fluid beds work well because they keep the paint fluffy, but in reality they work well for those who use them because the air circulating through the paint cools down the overheated jig and doesn't let too much paint stick. Fluffing the paint in the jar is easy and only takes a couple of seconds to do.

The best temperature for applying paint to a jig is 325*. The paint will stick but won't melt and your jig will come out with a nice even coat like this:



Notice how the hook eye is still open, if paint fills the hook eye solid your jig is too hot and you have too much paint on it... it will more than likely run and drip when you try to cure it.

After applying the paint I clean the hook eye thoroughly and then put it in the curing oven at 350*. The paint will then flash (melt) and the curing will begin. I cure everything (color) for 30 min. or longer @ 350*. Then you've got a good looking durable jig like the ones in my other pics.

If applying multiple coats, you need to cure between evey coat or the paint will run.
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  #22  
Old 12-06-2011, 06:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jigngrub View Post
I actually use 2 toaster ovens, 1 to heat the jigs for the paint and the second to cure the paint. I use the cheap $20 ovens from wal-mart with and oven thermometer inside ($5). Toaster oven temp settings aren't very accurate and the thermometer is a must.



I can heat 40 or more jigs at a time for painting, this save a lot of time over heating the jigs one at a time with a heat gun or flame.



I also know exactly what temperature my jig is when I stick it in the paint, this is very important because if your jig is too hot too much paint will stick to it and the paint will run and drip when you try to cure it. A lot of people have this problem and don't cure their jigs properly, this makes the paint brittle and it will chip and peel easily.

When a powder painted jig is cured properly you can hold it by the hook as high as you can reach and drop it on a concrete floor and the paint won't chip, the lead will dent but the paint won't chip. I test one or 2 of my jigs like this with every batch I paint.

I don't use a fluid bed, they're messy, waste paint, not all colors work with them, and you need to wear a dust mask when using one. Most people think the fluid beds work well because they keep the paint fluffy, but in reality they work well for those who use them because the air circulating through the paint cools down the overheated jig and doesn't let too much paint stick. Fluffing the paint in the jar is easy and only takes a couple of seconds to do.

The best temperature for applying paint to a jig is 325*. The paint will stick but won't melt and your jig will come out with a nice even coat like this:



Notice how the hook eye is still open, if paint fills the hook eye solid your jig is too hot and you have too much paint on it... it will more than likely run and drip when you try to cure it.

After applying the paint I clean the hook eye thoroughly and then put it in the curing oven at 350*. The paint will then flash (melt) and the curing will begin. I cure everything (color) for 30 min. or longer @ 350*. Then you've got a good looking durable jig like the ones in my other pics.

If applying multiple coats, you need to cure between evey coat or the paint will run.
JG this is awesome!!!Exactly what I was looking to learn.Santa is going to bring me some toaster ovens for Christmas!!!

FC
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  #23  
Old 12-06-2011, 10:32 AM
NathanH NathanH is offline
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For folks making their own jigs. Have you ever figured out what the per Jig cost works out to be? If so I would be intrested to know. I know that other advantages of making your own jigs other then cost.
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  #24  
Old 12-06-2011, 10:46 AM
basscatcher89
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The startup cost is the most expensive part. If you use a Lee pot which is from 60 to a 100 depending on model and then the molds are usually 30 bucks a piece. If you know the right people you can get lead for nothing so all your into for your jigs once pouring is the jig hooks themselves. Which I think a box of jig hooks is about 3 to 4 bucks for 100. I'm lucky in that I just got out of racing and had hundreds of pounds of lead mounted to the car that is now "jig material" so I'm good on lead for awhile so jig hooks are the only things I need. It's something that can pay off in the long run but its definitly not something to get in just to save money. Once you catch your first fish on something you poured or built you get addicted and want to spend hours trying to figure out your next custom mouse trap.
  #25  
Old 12-06-2011, 11:10 AM
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Wade B AKA: Ruger2506 Wade B AKA: Ruger2506 is offline
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Originally Posted by NathanH View Post
For folks making their own jigs. Have you ever figured out what the per Jig cost works out to be? If so I would be intrested to know. I know that other advantages of making your own jigs other then cost.
I can't remember the exact number. However I know it was around $0.50 - $0.55 per jig. Hair jigs may kick that up to $0.60 - $0.65 per jig.

High end hair jigs go for around $1.50/jig.
B Fish N Tackle Precision jigs $0.95/jig
VMC Moon Eye jigs are $0.88 - $1.00/jig
Northland Gumball jigs approx $0.42/jig
Cabelas bulk jigs are approx $0.20 - $0.30/jig

So there are cheaper jigs options out there, but they live up to the "cheaper" label. Chipped pain and broken hooks.
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Last edited by Wade B AKA: Ruger2506; 12-06-2011 at 11:12 AM.
  #26  
Old 12-06-2011, 12:36 PM
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The last time I figured up my price per jig material only I think it was like $.20 a jig including paint. I could make them for half that if I used the cheap or free lead, but I don't.

Most of the cheapfree lead is either pure lead, lead/tin, lead/bismuth, or lead/tin/bismuth alloys. This stuff is soft and weak and won't hold up to rocks or being bumped around and the heads will loosen on the hook easily.

I use a high grade ballistic alloy lead of 92% lead, 6% antimony, and 2% tin. This stuff is hard as a rock. It is more difficult to pour with and requires a much higher temp. to melt than the other alloys, but I like the quality of my jigs made with it.

I buy it here:
http://www.rotometals.com/product-p/...stingalloy.htm

Don't even get me started about how much my jigs cost me when I figure in my labor!
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  #27  
Old 12-06-2011, 03:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NathanH View Post
For folks making their own jigs. Have you ever figured out what the per Jig cost works out to be? If so I would be intrested to know. I know that other advantages of making your own jigs other then cost.
Nathan that is a great question!Folks we have some experienced jig makers here let's pick their brains!

I have a question,when tying bucktails do you incorporate flashabu or other material?I know of guy's who tie saltwater jigs who use feathers for wider body profiles and less weight,do you tie with feathers for eye's??

FC
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  #28  
Old 12-06-2011, 03:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NathanH View Post
For folks making their own jigs. Have you ever figured out what the per Jig cost works out to be? If so I would be intrested to know. I know that other advantages of making your own jigs other then cost.
I think the biggest advantage is I can make what I want when I need it. If there is a new hot color, I dont have to hunt around for it, they usually sell out or can be hard to find.

same goes for painting spoons and blades.



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  #29  
Old 12-06-2011, 04:09 PM
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Originally Posted by fishincrazy View Post
Nathan that is a great question!Folks we have some experienced jig makers here let's pick their brains!

I have a question,when tying bucktails do you incorporate flashabu or other material?I know of guy's who tie saltwater jigs who use feathers for wider body profiles and less weight,do you tie with feathers for eye's??

FC
I use strictly bucktail. Of course I hate the way feathers look/act. So I choose not to use them. I do add tinsel for flash.
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  #30  
Old 12-06-2011, 05:01 PM
Bigstorm Bigstorm is offline
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As far as cost per jig, I get the lead for free (used tire wieghts) so I just pay fo rthe hook ($.07/ea average) and the paint (maybe a couple cents per jig).

I mainly make my own because of the satisfaction of catching fish on something I made.

Now, for the guys that make jigs with hair on them -how do you do that? Do you get the different color hair/tinsle from cabelas, and tie it to the jig with thread and glue it?

I would be very interested in trying to make some hair jigs
 

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