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Cracked transom, 1993 Pro-V 1775 - Page 2 - Walleye Message Central
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  #11  
Old 09-19-2005, 09:25 PM
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Box Box is offline
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Default RE: Cracked transom, 1993 Pro-V 1775

Good info! I have a couple questions -

When I got marine plywood for pontoon decking, they said NOT to seal it at all, as it is made for that and sealing would be worse for it. Is it different for the transome?

Second, I am just wondering for the guys who had rotted transome, if you leave your boats in the water all year, or if you store them outside. Just wondering why some rot and some don't. I know there are lots of reasons, but it seems like storage outside might be a reason.

Anyway, yes, great info on this site!

-Box

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  #12  
Old 09-19-2005, 09:35 PM
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KHedquist KHedquist is offline
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Default RE: Cracked transom, 1993 Pro-V 1775

I was wondering do they have the extra brace inside of the transom? It goes from the splash well to the transom, I have 2 of those on my Pike 17. I t adds extraa support for the engine/transom.

GOOD LUCK and THANK YOU, moreyes <'{{^}}<

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  #13  
Old 09-19-2005, 09:35 PM
Homer Homer is online now
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Default RE: Cracked transom, 1993 Pro-V 1775

Thanks everyone for the very helpful comments. I called the nearest Lund dealer earlier today to get some idea on what would be involved in fixing it. He said if I brought the boat in they would remove the motor and then ship the boat back to Lund for repair. He couldn't give a cost estimate over the phone, but when I told him it was a two hour drive he said to e-mail him the pictures of it and he'd se what he could do.

I'll figure out what to do next after I get an estimate from him. Thanks again, and I'll report back as things develop.
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  #14  
Old 09-19-2005, 10:31 PM
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Default RE: Cracked transom, 1993 Pro-V 1775

Couple of comments....my ProV showed brown water stains leaking out of the one way flap valves. Popped them out and found they were not sealed, just plastic tubes of two sizes compressed together against aluminum....no kidding water is going to get in there.....The boat was stored inside a heated shop all it's young life (2000-2004)...It now has 3m 5200 sopped in and around those tubes I'll tell you....In regards to the inside of the transom...it is neat....board pulls out in one piece ( I think mine was 1 and 3/4 inches thick)...the bolts from the back go through to the braces and stringers and have nuts from the inside...(getting to nuts throw the foam is a tedious job)When all wood is out...two flappy little aluminum sides makes you wonder how these things can hold 20 hp never mind 200hp.....wow....I sealed wood as I felt and talked to people that did this that once you cut the marine plywood you have exposed the laminates and if water gets in between it..have fun! I also predrilled off a template that I made all of the holes, then sealed them off as well, plus put 3m on each bolt when I replaced it.... I did seal the outside of the wood with the marine epoxy as well....I know some say wood should breathe...but in discussions with wood/boat places the message was to seal it up...check out West System Epoxy website.

Hope this helps a bit....will drop you an email if you decide to go the fix it yourself route....
  #15  
Old 09-20-2005, 05:17 AM
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perchjerker perchjerker is offline
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Default RE: Cracked transom, 1993 Pro-V 1775

I have a few scraps of marine plywood left over from a project years ago. They were out back leaning up against and old shed we used to have. I forgot about it for years and it has been rained on and exposed to the elements all this time. I discovered it just this past summer while cleaning up and that plywood looks as good as the day I cut it. I was really suprised.





  #16  
Old 09-20-2005, 05:22 AM
erie addict erie addict is offline
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Default RE: Cracked transom, 1993 Pro-V 1775

One of the things that really surprised me when I got my 2002 Prov IFS home, is that nothing is sealed except the motor. I have owned numerous boats and they all had the cleats and other fittings sealed from the factory. On my lund none of the cleats, light bases or snaps for the top were sealed. All of which are backed by wood. This is in no way a slam on lund. I love my prov. I just find it odd that nothing is sealed from the factory. I spent a saturday pulling all the screws out and sealing them up with 3M 5200. One thing is for sure, Fishing on erie, my boat will get wet.
  #17  
Old 09-20-2005, 09:17 AM
redbone
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Default RE: Cracked transom, 1993 Pro-V 1775

Homer, there's a new lund dealer in gibralter on jefferson. i think it's erie bay marinas second store. not sure how the service is but ask them for Greg Yarbrough's phone number (he's the lund rep for this area)so he can get involved and help you out on any questions.
good luck, any thing i can do to help just ask.

Bob Piette
  #18  
Old 09-20-2005, 09:38 AM
Homer Homer is online now
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Default RE: Cracked transom, 1993 Pro-V 1775

I've been talking to Krupa's in Jackson since they are a little closer to me. Still waiting on an estimate from them before I figure out what to do next.

Thanks for taking the time to talk about this with me at the DWF meeting last night.
  #19  
Old 09-20-2005, 11:09 AM
Unloggeed T-Mac
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Default RE: Cracked transom, 1993 Pro-V 1775

As recall...those braces first showed up on the 1994 Pro-Vs.
  #20  
Old 09-20-2005, 05:19 PM
tuffy2
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Default RE: Cracked transom, 1993 Pro-V 1775

Is this normal for Lund boats to have a rotted transom after 12 years? I have been following some of the threads on this site and I have never heard so many complaints about untreated wood, soft spots in the floors and now transom rot. I thought Lund guaranteed the hull and transom for life? I have a brand new Explorer sitting in the garage and don't want these types of problems. I have always had glass boats and have never experienced these types of problems. Is this the real world for aluminum boats? Not trying to be negative about Lund or any other aluminum boats, just trying to get the facts.
 

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