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  #11  
Old 07-07-2019, 09:33 AM
ltrain ltrain is offline
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Originally Posted by T Mac View Post
You are not wrong on the dealer part.. There is still a vast difference in Dealer abilities.
*Also, when it comes to wiring issues in many cases the owner or one of his buddies applying "farmer rigging" has created some freak issues.

I have been out fishing only to be approached on the water by a guy who bought one of my demos (7 years old now)...from the guy who bought it from the guy who bought it from me...This 3rd owner starts giving me the business about some electrical short in the boat. ...and what am I gonna do about it?

My response was ..."It was working perfectly when I sold it 7 years ago...but it did have different electronics, then."

... good post Itrain.

Thanks T Mac, I unfortunately have first hand knowledge of what it's like to have severe galvanic corrosion. Long story short- picked up a boat that just had a new transom put in a week prior,big selling point, too bad it was done by complete idiot,hacks. They used unsealed, pressure treated wood. Before i knew it i was taking on water, went to investigate all the white powdery spots on the transom and 20 minutes later I had 70 holes to Jb weld, that grew to 120 before the end,2years later. Since i pick up mostly older, project boats Ive have seen more than my fair share of "farmer" rigged fixes too.
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Rhodan 72" 36v 120 lb. thrust trolling motor
2 Simrad NSS12
Lowrance HDS 12 gen2
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  #12  
Old 07-07-2019, 12:24 PM
danbob danbob is offline
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The factory wiring is ALL original and untouched. I added my own blue sea fuse box (last year) and onboard charger (6 years ago) with wiring above the floor (as i didnt see how the onboard charger wires with fuses would make it through the puny rigging tubes). Its routed through the starboard storage locker from the battery compartment. The blue sea has a pair of lowrance carbons, point 1 and ultrex gps puck as I wanted thicker gauge wiring to prevent voltage sag on these big screens and a separate circuit with a breaker because of nmea being constantly on, and guess what, no continuity with the hull with these circuits! If the boat was "farmer rigged" the issue would be a breeze to spot as i would know where to look.

So far i've looked everywhere that i could see and no sheath on any of the ground wiring is exposed. Everything under the console looks good. If i unplug the main ground from the fuse block there, the block no longer has continuity with the hull whereas it does with the main ground connected. So that area is ruled out.

To be honest, im kind of stumped as for the most part, the ground runs through rigging tubes, and are exposed only by the rod lockers which is easily visible and the transom portion of the bilge which is difficult to see. I have had the consoles replaced 3 times under warranty due to cracking so maybe a wire could have been pinched there.

Thanks for the fuel sender idea, will check that out first once the floor is pulled. And am thinking of removing the rear deck to get a better look at the transom area.

Greatly appreciate the assistance. Once get access to hull, is their anything that should be done about the corrosion on the inside?
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  #13  
Old 07-07-2019, 12:59 PM
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That Minnesota guy That Minnesota guy is offline
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I don't know anything about whats going on. I would take a look at the console area thats been replaced 3 times. Seems like a place where there might be a issue.

Good luck.
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  #14  
Old 07-07-2019, 01:05 PM
danbob danbob is offline
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I don't know anything about whats going on. I would take a look at the console area thats been replaced 3 times. Seems like a place where there might be a issue.

Good luck.
Agreed, will triple check it before pulling out the floors.
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  #15  
Old 07-07-2019, 01:13 PM
ltrain ltrain is offline
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Seems like you're doing everything right, danbob. Hopefully this is not a galvanic corrosion issue and just crevice corrosion as has also been suggested. Symptoms and appearance are virtually the same. Once all your wires have been checked out to be in good order maybe it could have been just a bad prep and paint job. Hope it all works out keep us posted.
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1987 Lund Baron
2005 Yamaha f150
1998 15 hp Mariner 2stroke with controllking
Rhodan 72" 36v 120 lb. thrust trolling motor
2 Simrad NSS12
Lowrance HDS 12 gen2
Lowrance point 1
Simrad is40
Sonarhub
LSS 1
2 36" Cannon tracks
2 Cannon electric downriggers
2 Highseas quad rod trees
6 Bert's ratcheting rod holders
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  #16  
Old 07-07-2019, 01:41 PM
danbob danbob is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ltrain View Post
Seems like you're doing everything right, danbob. Hopefully this is not a galvanic corrosion issue and just crevice corrosion as has also been suggested. Symptoms and appearance are virtually the same. Once all your wires have been checked out to be in good order maybe it could have been just a bad prep and paint job. Hope it all works out keep us posted.
Will do. Symptoms are similar but i have to check just to be sure.
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  #17  
Old 07-07-2019, 02:48 PM
DW DW is offline
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With your test showing no continuity to ground at the fuse block when the ground wire was disconnected, you established that the undesired ground is between the block ground wire and the battery. If you canít figure out the fault, the easy option is to abandon the fuse block power cable and simply install a new one. Same with any other cables attached to a battery.

Although you are frustrated I suggest you are over reacting to the situation. While I would not use the aluminum hull for a negative back feed to the battery, the concerns are overstated in a low amp, DC scenario.

You have crevice corrosion. The crevice corrosion probably started before your rivets leaked. The slightest movement of the aluminum sheets at a rivet breaks the integrity of the paint, and you can will experience corrosion at that point. Face the music: rivets can and do leak, and crevice corrosion is an inevitable secondary consequence.

What you should do, as all aluminum boat owners should do, is install a hull anode. $30 on an alloy anode glued below waterline and wired to ground and you have ended the risk of galvanic corrosion wrecking your hull and you will sleep well.
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  #18  
Old 07-07-2019, 11:04 PM
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97roughneck 97roughneck is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by That Minnesota guy View Post
I don't know anything about whats going on. I would take a look at the console area thats been replaced 3 times. Seems like a place where there might be a issue.

Good luck.
I don't have a clue what is going on either, but I'm gonna throw my two cents in. This is the kind of stuff that personally drives me nuts. You sound like a real mechanically minded person, systematically checking everything. So you might get lucky.

If this was me, 100% honest now, this boat would get traded off. I have enough real problems in my life that require my full attention. This is an unnecessary thorn in my side that can be remedied by a trip to the boat dealer.
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  #19  
Old 07-08-2019, 12:03 PM
DW DW is offline
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^^^^

Thatís pretty harsh. Careful inspection of all makes of boats that are 8 years old would reveal a lot of aluminum boats with some crevice corrosion. It goes along with dock rash that accumulates over the years no matter how careful the owner. Leaking rivets is a risk that goes with riveted boats. Everyone that buys one should do so with open eyes.

The OP can replace the fuse panel cable and everything will be ok.
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  #20  
Old 07-08-2019, 02:32 PM
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Bobby Winds Bobby Winds is offline
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