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  #21  
Old 07-08-2019, 05:16 PM
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Shellback Shellback is offline
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So we know outboards are grounded to the hull, and I believe you disconnected the heavy gauge wires from the outboard to the battery to eliminate that ground. Did you also disconnect the wire harness from the engine? I'm sure there would be a ground wire in there also.
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  #22  
Old 07-09-2019, 01:04 PM
danbob danbob is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shellback View Post
So we know outboards are grounded to the hull, and I believe you disconnected the heavy gauge wires from the outboard to the battery to eliminate that ground. Did you also disconnect the wire harness from the engine? I'm sure there would be a ground wire in there also.
That i did not check. Good thinking.
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  #23  
Old 07-09-2019, 01:13 PM
danbob danbob is offline
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Originally Posted by DW View Post
^^^^

That’s pretty harsh. Careful inspection of all makes of boats that are 8 years old would reveal a lot of aluminum boats with some crevice corrosion. It goes along with dock rash that accumulates over the years no matter how careful the owner. Leaking rivets is a risk that goes with riveted boats. Everyone that buys one should do so with open eyes.

The OP can replace the fuse panel cable and everything will be ok.
So i think you were definitely 100% correct about it being crevice corrosion. I pulled up the rear deck and didnt see anything out of the ordinary. And while it was out, i cleaned up the bilge. It wasn't any type of corrosion, just grime. Thank goodness. Back to shiny aluminum.

Just had to be sure though, as i have never seen the white corrosion along the splashrail before (gap between the hull) up until this season.

The paint bubbling ill learn to live with as its already 8 years old, and its difficult to say whether its from corrosion or crappy prep.

What would you do about the two leaky rivets? Replace? Seal with a compound like Gluvit?

Still had continuity with the hull, but if i measured voltage, it was 0.02-0.05. So i dont think its an issue. A another member mentioned the motor wiring harness still being connected, maybe thats why i had a positive reading.
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  #24  
Old 07-09-2019, 02:42 PM
DW DW is online now
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If you can, replace the rivets. I am not a riveter so maybe someone will chime in on the topic. I donít think it is hard but you need access to both sides so you will need to remove a floor board.
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  #25  
Old 07-10-2019, 01:53 AM
ltrain ltrain is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DW View Post
If you can, replace the rivets. I am not a riveter so maybe someone will chime in on the topic. I donít think it is hard but you need access to both sides so you will need to remove a floor board.
Yes i would replace the rivets. You don't even need access to the other side. There are special closed end aluminum blind rivets that are used in water tight situations. I got mine off Amazon, i put some 3m 5200 on them for good measure, they work well. Be careful when drilling the old rivet out, use a center punch to start hole and a smaller drill bit than the rivet which is 3/16th. Rivet head will come off first, then use a punch to knock rivet shaft into hull. After that, little 5200 on rivet, insert ,few pumps on the gun and your done.

Glad it's just crevice corrosion, btw I think you took your voltage measurement on the painted hull, if you find a bare aluminum spot you will indeed see a full 12v- that's normal though due to motor grounding.
Its when the hull is used as a return due to faulty wiring , thats when you run into problems, the difference of potential sacrifices the aluminum. Since all your wiring checks out, you don't have to worry about that. As long as it's just paint bubbles and there's no powder under the paint, just solid aluminum, you'll be fine from a structural standpoint.
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  #26  
Old 07-12-2019, 08:29 AM
Captain Donn Captain Donn is offline
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I have never heard of electrolysis caused by 12 volts. If you have a onboard battery charger for trolling motor batteries, there could bestray 110v (in the water) at the place you moor your boat. Also check for correct polarity (hot/neutral) on your 110v wiring. Hope this helps.
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  #27  
Old 07-12-2019, 05:23 PM
ltrain ltrain is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Captain Donn View Post
I have never heard of electrolysis caused by 12 volts. If you have a onboard battery charger for trolling motor batteries, there could bestray 110v (in the water) at the place you moor your boat. Also check for correct polarity (hot/neutral) on your 110v wiring. Hope this helps.
Galvanic corrosion can occur with 12v dc
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1987 Lund Baron
2005 Yamaha f150
1998 15 hp Mariner 2stroke with controllking
Rhodan 72" 36v 120 lb. thrust trolling motor
2 Simrad NSS12
Lowrance HDS 10 gen2
Lowrance point 1
Simrad is40
Sonarhub
LSS 1
2 36" Cannon tracks
2 Cannon electric downriggers
2 Highseas quad rod trees
6 Bert's ratcheting rod holders
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